Tuscan-style garlic-rosemary roast pork loin with jus

From Cook's Illustrated

Serves 6 to 8. Published September 1, 2002.

The roasting time is determined in part by the shape of the roast; a long, thin roast will cook faster than a roast with a large circumference. Though not traditionally served, the ribs are rich with flavor. If you'd like to serve them or enjoy them for yourself, increase the oven temperature to 375 degrees, untie the roast and remove the loin as directed, then scrape off the excess garlic-rosemary paste from the ribs, set them on a rimmed baking sheet, and return them to the oven for about 20 minutes, until they are brown and crisp. Slice in between bones and serve.

Ingredients

Roast
2	cups kosher salt or 1 cup table salt
2 1/3	cups packed dark brown sugar (16 ounces)
10	large cloves garlic , lightly crushed and peeled
5	sprigs fresh rosemary (each about 6 inches long)
1	bone-in, center-cut, 4-pound pork rib roast , prepared according to first two illustrations below
Garlic-Rosemary Paste
8 - 10	cloves garlic , pressed through garlic press or minced to paste (1 1/2 tablespoons)
1 1/2	tablespoons minced fresh rosemary
1	teaspoon ground black pepper
1	tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
1/8	teaspoon kosher salt or pinch table salt
Jus
1	cup dry white wine
1	teaspoon ground black pepper
1	medium shallot , minced (about 3 tablespoons)
1 1/2	teaspoons minced fresh rosemary
1 3/4	cups low-sodium chicken broth
2	tablespoons unsalted butter , cut into 4 pieces and softened

Instructions

1. 1. TO BRINE THE ROAST: Dissolve salt and brown sugar in 1 1/2 quarts hot tap water in large stockpot or clean bucket. Stir in garlic and rosemary; add 2 1/2 quarts cold water and submerge meat and bones in brine. Refrigerate until fully seasoned, about 3 hours. Rinse meat and ribs under cold water and dry thoroughly with paper towels.

2. 2. FOR THE GARLIC-ROSEMARY RUB: While roast brines, mix together garlic, rosemary, pepper, olive oil, and salt in small bowl to form paste; set aside.

3. 3. TO PREPARE THE ROAST: When roast is done brining, adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 325 degrees. Heat heavy-bottomed 12-inch nonreactive skillet over medium heat until hot, about 4 minutes. Place roast fat-side down in skillet and cook until well-browned, about 8 minutes. Transfer roast browned-side up to cutting board and set aside to cool. Pour off fat from skillet and add wine; increase heat to high and bring to boil, scraping skillet with wooden spoon until browned bits are loosened, about 1 minute. Set skillet with wine aside.

4. 4. Following "Adding the Paste" illustrations below, make lengthwise incision in pork loin, rub with one-third of garlic-rosemary paste, rub remaining paste on cut side of ribs, and tie meat back to ribs. Sprinkle browned side of roast with 1 teaspoon pepper and set roast rib-side down in flameproof roasting pan. Pour reserved wine and browned bits from skillet in roasting pan. Roast, basting loin with pan drippings every 20 minutes, until center of loin registers about 135 degrees on instant-read thermometer, 65 to 80 minutes. (If wine evaporates, add about 1/2 cup water to roasting pan to prevent scorching.) Transfer roast to carving board and tent loosely with foil; let stand until center of loin registers about 145 degrees on instant-read thermometer, about 15 minutes.

5. 5. While roast rests, spoon off most of fat from roasting pan and place over 2 burners at high heat. Add shallot and rosemary; using wooden spoon, scrape up browned bits and boil liquid until reduced by half and shallot has softened, about 2 minutes. Add chicken broth and continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until reduced by half, about 8 minutes. Add any accumulated pork juices and cook 1 minute longer. Off heat, whisk in butter; strain jus into gravy boat.

6. 6. Cut twine on roast and remove meat from bones. Set meat browned-side up on board and cut into 1/4-inch-thick slices. Serve immediately, passing jus separately.

Variation: Tuscan-style garlic-rosemary roast pork loin with fennel
2 medium bulbs fennel
1 tablespoon olive oil
Table salt and ground black pepper

2. PREPARE THE FENNEL: Trim fennel bulbs of stalks and fronds; finely chop 2 teaspoons fronds. Cut each bulb lengthwise into eighths. Toss fennel with 1 tablespoon olive oil in medium bowl and season generously with salt and pepper.
3. FOR THE GARLIC-ROSEMARY RUB: While roast brines, mix together garlic, rosemary, fennel seeds, chopped fennel fronds, pepper, olive oil, and salt in small bowl to form paste; set aside.

Variation: Tuscan-style garlic-rosemary roast pork loin with roasted potatoes

3/4	cup dry white wine
2	pounds medium red potatoes , 2 1/2-inch diameter, (about 14 potatoes total), quartered
2	tablespoons olive oil
	Table salt and ground black pepper

5. When pork has roasted 15 minutes, toss potatoes with olive oil in medium bowl and season generously with salt and pepper. Baste pork. After pork has roasted 30 minutes, add potatoes to roasting pan; stir to coat potatoes with pan juices. Continue to roast pork (basting every 20 minutes) until center of loin registers about 135 degrees on instant-read thermometer, 65 to 80 minutes. (If wine evaporates, add about 1/2 cup water to roasting pan to prevent scorching.) Transfer roast to carving board and tent loosely with foil; let stand until center of loin registers about 145 degrees on instant-read thermometer, about 15 minutes. Turn potato pieces with wide metal spatula and spread them in even layer. Increase oven temperature to 400 degrees and return potatoes to oven; continue to roast until tender and browned, 5 to 15 minutes longer.

Preparing the Roast and Adding the Paste

Position roast so bones are perpendicular to cutting board. Starting from far end and working toward you make series of small, easy strokes with boning knife.

Gradually cut along curved rib bones down to backbone until meat is free of bones.

Adding the Paste #1: With fat side of roast down, slice through center of entire length of meat, stopping 1 inch shy of edge. Spread meat flat.

Adding the Paste #2: Rub one-third of rosemary mixture in even layer on one side of cut, leaving 1/2 inch on each end bare.

Adding the Paste #3: Spread remaining rosemary mixture evenly along bones from where meat was cut, leaving 1/2 inch on each end bare.

Adding the Paste #4: Fold meat back together and tie meat on bones exactly from where it was cut with 7 individual lengths of twine.

Lime-cumin dressing

Adapted from Cook's Illustrated

Serves 4 to 6. Published January 1, 2000. From Cook's Illustrated.

Ingredients
1/4 cup lime juice from 2 limes
2 small cloves garlic , minced
1 medium jalapeño chile , minced (about 1 tablespoon)
1 teaspoon cumin seed , toasted in small dry skillet over medium heat until fragrant and golden, about 4 minutes
1 teaspoon grated orange zest
1/4 cup olive oil
Table salt and ground black pepper

Instructions
1. Whisk lime juice, garlic, jalapeño, cumin, and orange zest in medium bowl; whisk in oil. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Pasta with tomato and almond pesto (pesto alla trapanese)

From Cook's Illustrated

Serves 4 to 6. Published July 1, 2009. From Cook's Illustrated.

A half teaspoon of red wine vinegar and ¼ teaspoon of red pepper flakes can be substituted for the pepperoncini. If you don’t have a food processor, a blender may be substituted. In step 2, pulse ingredients until roughly chopped, then proceed with the recipe, reducing processing times by half.

Ingredients

1/4	cup slivered almonds
12	ounces cherry or grape tomatoes (about 2 1/2 cups)
1/2	cup packed fresh basil leaves
1	medium garlic clove , minced or pressed through garlic press (about 1 teaspoon)
1	small pepperoncini (hot peppers in vinegar), stemmed, seeded, and minced (about 1/2 teaspoon) (see note)
	Table salt
	Pinch red pepper flakes (optional)
1/3	cup extra-virgin olive oil
1	pound pasta , preferably linguine or spaghetti
1	ounce Parmesan cheese , grated (about 1/2 cup), plus extra for serving

Instructions

1. 1. Toast almonds in small skillet over medium heat, stirring frequently, until pale golden and fragrant, 2 to 4 minutes. Cool almonds to room temperature.

2. 2. Process cooled almonds, tomatoes, basil, garlic, pepperoncini, 1 teaspoon salt, and red pepper flakes (if using) in food processor until smooth, about 1 minute. Scrape down sides of bowl with rubber spatula. With machine running, slowly drizzle in oil, about 30 seconds.

3. 3. Meanwhile, bring 4 quarts water to boil in large pot. Add pasta and 1 tablespoon salt and cook until al dente. Reserve ½ cup cooking water; drain pasta and transfer back to cooking pot.

4. 4. Add pesto and ½ cup Parmesan to cooked pasta, adjusting consistency with reserved pasta cooking water so that pesto coats pasta. Serve immediately, passing Parmesan separately.

Southern-style cornbread

From Cook's Illustrated

Makes one 8-inch skillet of bread. Published May 1, 1998.

Unlike its sweet, cakey Northern counterpart, Southern cornbread is thin, crusty, and decidedly savory. Though some styles of Southern cornbread are dry and crumbly, I favor this dense, moist, tender version. Cornmeal mush of just the right texture is essential to this bread. Though I prefer to make cornbread in a preheated cast-iron skillet, a 9-inch round cake pan or 9-inch square baking pan, greased lightly with butter and not preheated, will also produce acceptable results if you double the recipe and bake the bread for 25 minutes.

Ingredients

4	teaspoons bacon drippings or 1 tablespoon melted butter and 1 teaspoon vegetable oil
1	cup yellow cornmeal , preferably stone ground
2	teaspoons granulated sugar
1/2	teaspoon table salt
1	teaspoon baking powder
1/4	teaspoon baking soda
1/3	cup water (rapidly boiling)
3/4	cup buttermilk
1	large egg , beaten lightly

Instructions

1. 1. Adjust oven rack to lower middle position and heat oven to 450 degrees. Set 8-inch cast-iron skillet with bacon fat (or vegetable oil) in heating oven.

2. 2. Measure 1/3 cup cornmeal into medium bowl. Mix remaining cornmeal, sugar, salt, baking powder, and baking soda in small bowl; set aside.

3. 3. Pour boiling water all at once into the 1/3 cup cornmeal; stir to make a stiff mush. Whisk in buttermilk gradually, breaking up lumps until smooth, then whisk in egg. When oven is preheated and skillet very hot, stir dry ingredients into mush mixture until just moistened. Carefully remove skillet from oven. Pour hot bacon fat (or melted butter) from the skillet into the batter and stir to incorporate, then quickly pour batter into heated skillet. Bake until golden brown, about 20 minutes. Remove from oven and instantly turn cornbread onto wire rack; cool for 5 minutes, then serve immediately.

Eastern North Carolina-style barbecue sauce

From Cook's Illustrated

Makes 2 cups. Published July 1, 1997.

This is a classic pepper-spiked vinegar sauce, without tomatoes.

Ingredients

1	cup distilled white vinegar
1	cup cider vinegar
1	tablespoon granulated sugar
1	tablespoon crushed red pepper flakes
1	tablespoon hot pepper sauce
	Table salt and ground black pepper

Instructions

1. Mix all ingredients, including salt and pepper to taste, in medium bowl.

Western South Carolina-style barbecue sauce

From Cook's Illustrated

Makes 2 cups. Published July 1, 1997.

Ingredients

1	tablespoon vegetable oil
1/2	medium onion , minced
2	medium cloves garlic , minced
1/2	cup cider vinegar
1/2	cup Worcestershire sauce
1	tablespoon dry mustard
1	tablespoon dark brown sugar
1	tablespoon paprika
1	teaspoon table salt
1	teaspoon cayenne pepper
1	cup ketchup

Instructions

Heat oil in 2-quart saucepan over medium heat. Add onion and garlic; sauté until softened, 4 to 5 minutes. Stir in all the remaining ingredients except ketchup; bring to boil. Reduce heat to low, then add ketchup. Cook, stirring occasionally, until thickened, about 15 minutes.

Roast chicken with dijon mustard-thyme sauce

From Cook's Illustrated

Jean-Louis Gerin of Restaurant Jean-Louis in Greenwich, Connecticut, serves this sauce with butterflied baby chicken (poussin). The immersion blender transforms all the wonderful tasting (but not-so-wonderful looking) browned mustard bits and pieces into flecks, giving the sauce a smooth, more refined look.

Ingredients

1/2	cup Dijon mustard
1	tablespoon fresh thyme , stems removed
4	chicken breast halves
2	tablespoons butter
1 1/2	cups chicken stock
1/4	cup heavy cream

Instructions

1. 1. Mix Dijon mustard and thyme; coat chicken pieces with this marinade. Cover and refrigerate for 24 hours.

2. 2. Bring chicken to room temperature and heat oven to 350°. Melt 1 tablespoon butter in a skillet. Add 2 breasts and cook, skin side down, over medium-high heat, until well browned, about 6 minutes. Transfer breasts to a roasting pan. Repeat cooking process with remaining chicken, adding another tablespoon butter, if necessary. Transfer chicken to the oven; roast until juices run clear when pierced with a fork, 20 to 25 minutes.

3. 3. Meanwhile, add chicken stock to skillet; bring to boil, scraping up any brown bits that have stuck to the pan; simmer until stock reduces to 3/4 cup, about 10 minutes. Add cream; return to simmer for 1 minute. Pour sauce into an appropriate container. Submerge an immersion blender and blend until sauce is smooth and frothy. Place a piece of chicken on each of 4 dinner plates. Spoon a portion of sauce over each piece of chicken and serve immediately.

Mustard sauce with vermouth and thyme

From Cook's Illustrated

The Dijon mustard lends a creaminess to this sauce, while the whole-grain mustard adds texture and visual appeal.

Ingredients

1 1/2	cups chicken stock or canned low-sodium chicken broth
2	tablespoons cornstarch
2	tablespoons unsalted butter
3	medium shallots , chopped fine
2	cups dry vermouth
1	tablespoon brown sugar
1/2	cup Dijon mustard
1/4	cup whole grain mustard
1	tablespoon chopped fresh thyme leaves
	Table salt and ground black pepper

Instructions

Whisk together chicken stock and cornstarch; set aside. Heat butter in 12-inch skillet over medium heat until foaming; add shallots and sauté until softened, about 3 minutes. Stir in vermouth and sugar; increase heat to medium-high and simmer until alcohol vapors have cooked off, about 4 minutes. Whisk chicken stock and cornstarch mixture to recombine, then gradually whisk into simmering liquid; return sauce to simmer until thickened, stirring occasionally. Off heat, whisk in Dijon and whole-grain mustards and thyme; season to taste with salt and pepper. (Can be cooled to room temperature and refrigerated up to 2 days. Reheat in medium saucepan over medium-low heat.) Serve with ham.

Mid-South Carolina mustard sauce

From Cook's Illustrated

The pulled pork tossed in this mustard sauce was the hands-down favorite at a recent party. Though we prefer the flavor of Dijon mustard in this sauce, feel free to substitute other mustards to suit your taste.

Ingredients

1	cup cider vinegar
6	tablespoons Dijon mustard
2	tablespoons maple syrup or honey
4	teaspoons Worcestershire sauce
1	teaspoon hot pepper sauce
1	cup vegetable oil
2	teaspoons table salt
	Ground black pepper

Instructions

Mix all ingredients, including pepper to taste, in medium bowl.

Honey-mustard vinaigrette

Adapted from Cook's Illustrated

Ingredients
2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
3 medium shallots , minced (about 1/4 cup)
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
2 teaspoons honey
2 teaspoons grated orange zest
1/4 cup olive oil
Table salt and ground black pepper

Instructions
Whisk vinegar, shallots, mustard, honey, and orange zest in medium bowl; whisk in oil. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Grilled eggplant and olive pizza

From Smitten Kitchen

A few months ago, a friend called to say that she was telling her office mates about how I love to grill pizza and they set to searching for my recipe on this site and couldn’t find it. Gulp, I said, I’ve just never written it up! From that day forward, I made it my Summer Priority to walk you through pizza on the grill, but I have failed at each turn. Either we’ve made the pizza too late in the evening and the pictures came out anything but appetizing, or the day I decided to try again, it has rained. Seriously. If you want thunderstorms to suddenly threaten, let me promise to make you grilled pizza for dinner.

Last night was the final straw, or the day I finally threw my hands in the air and declared that a proper introduction to grilled pizza will probably have to wait until next summer. (Fortunately, Jen and Dietsch at Last Night’s Dinner won’t make you wait that long.) I have had this grilled eggplant and olive pizza on the agenda even since I spied it in this month’s Gourmet and knew that it immediately needed to get in my belly. Four days later (a typical time lag these days from “idea” to “execution”, sadly) I had the ingredients amassed, the energy to give it a try and even a friend’s yard to grill in, thus of course, the weather went downhill. But I persevered, climbing into the far reaches of our linen closet where we stash kitchen stuff that doesn’t get much use (whispering hello to my 12-inch wedding cake pans and canneler molds), unearthing my cast iron panini pan (hey, close enough, right?) and setting to grill to my heart’s content, weather be damned.

And despite the fact that I generally feel indoor grilling is a sham — once you remove the smoldering charcoal flavor, the sun on your shoulders and the beer bottle condensating on a weathered picnic table, what’s left that’s worthwhile? — it was going along swimmingly, that is, until Alex came home and declared it “partly cloudy” in our apartment; whoops! Anyway, smoky plumes emanating from the kitchen aside, if this pizza can be this good cooked on a shoddy indoor grill pan, I can only imagine how dreamy it will be seared over fire in your backyard or on your rooftop this weekend. Smoky eggplant, briny olives and blistered bubbles of provolone… my friends, what are you waiting for?

One year ago: Grilled Eggplant with Caponata Salsa, Chocolate Peanut Butter Cake and Slow-Roasted Tomatoes
Two years ago: Brownie Mosaic Cheesecake

Grilled Eggplant and Olive Pizza
Adapted from Gourmet, August 2009

This recipe defies many of the things that I usually preach about pizza, namely that I generally go for pizzas that are thinner and less overloaded with toppings. You’re also more likely to get the results you want from them on a grill or in an oven. But this one — with its pre-grilled eggplant slices piled thick and melty and blistering-prone provolone — has got me rethinking my thin pizza biases because it’s hearty, smoky and delicious.

Makes 4 hearty dinner servings, or 9 appetizer-size portions

1 garlic clove, minced
1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 1/4 pound eggplant, cut into 3/4-inch-thick rounds
1 pound store-bought pizza or homemade pizza dough at room temperature (1 1/2 of this recipe will yield a 1-pound dough)
5 ounces sliced provolone, cut into short thin matchsticks (1 1/4 cups)
Handful pitted green olives, coarsely chopped (1/3 cup)
1/4 cup chopped flat-leaf parsley

To make this pizza on a grill, or in a grill pan: Stir together garlic and oil. Brush some of garlic oil on both sides of eggplant and season with 3/4 teaspoon salt and 1/2 teaspoon pepper. Grill over direct medium heat, covered, turning once, until tender, 6 to 8 minutes total. Cut into roughly one-inch pieces and set aside.

Stretch dough into about a 12- by 10-inch rectangle (or into the shape of your grill pan, which in my case, was square) on a large baking sheet or your counter and lightly brush with garlic oil. Oil grill rack, then put dough, oiled side down, on grill. Brush top with more garlic oil. Grill, covered, until underside is golden-brown, about 2 to 3 minutes.

Using tongs, return crust, grilled side up, to baking sheet. Scatter eggplant, cheese, olives, and parsley (whoops, forgot mine) over crust. Slide pizza from sheet onto grill and grill, covered, until underside is golden-brown and cheese is melted, about 3 to 5 minutes. (If you’re using an oven-safe grill pan, you can slide the pan into a preheated 500 degree oven at this point, as we did, which gets the toppings that much more blistered.) Season to taste with salt, pepper and a red pepper flakes.

To make this pizza in the oven: You can either fry or roast the eggplant slices, brushed with garlic oil, until tender. Prepare the pizza as you would any other, rolling or stretching out the dough, mounding on the toppings and sliding it onto a baking sheet or pizza stone in an oven that has been preheated to its top temperature. It will be ready in about 10 minutes.

Chipotle chicken, apricot and brie quesadillas

From Closet Cooking

After a long break from Texmex/Mexican cuisine I was back into the zone and craving more. I also wanted to use some fresh local ingredients and I remembered seeing a chicken, apricot and brie panini on good Life {eats} which sounded like a good combo. I immediately thought about doing a quesadilla version but I knew that I would need some heat so I added some chopped chipotles in adobo sauce. I followed that with some cilantro, and green onions and I was just about done. For the apricots, I decided to grill them first and I thought that since brie goes well with jams that a bit of apricot preserves would both enhance the apricot flavour and add a nice touch of contrasting and balancing sweetness. I like to cook my quesadillas stove top in a pan as I am always able to get them nice and golden brown and slightly crispy on the outside and ooey gooey and melted and good on the inside and this time was no different. The chipotle chicken, apricot and brie quesadillas turned out really well! I liked the combination of the spicy chipotle chicken along with the apricots and the melted cheese all wrapped in crispy tortillas. The touch of sweetness from the apricot preserves worked just as well in these quesadillas as they do in grilled cheese sandwiches and I am going to enjoy experimenting some more with the new combo.

(makes 1 quesadilla)

Ingredients:
1/4 cup chicken (cooked and shredded)
1 tablespoon apricot preserves
1 chipotle in adobo sauce (chopped)
1 green onion (sliced)
1 tablespoon cilantro (chopped)
a touch of butter
2 large tortillas
1 apricot (sliced in half, stoned, grilled and thinly sliced)
4 ounces brie (thinly sliced)

Directions:
1. Mix the chicken, apricot preserves, chipotle in adobo sauce, green onion, cilantro in a large bowl.
2. Melt the butter in a large pan.
3. Place a tortilla into the pan and swirl it around in the butter and set aside.
4. Repeat for the other tortilla and leave it in the pan.
5. Spread the chicken mixture, apricot and brie on the tortilla and top with the other tortilla.
6. Cook until the quesadilla is golden brown on both sides and the cheese is melted. (I placed a plate onto the quesadilla and flipped it from the pan to the plate and then slid it back into the pan.)

Poutine râpée

Adapted from Practically Edible and Acadian Genealogy: Acadian Recipes

Poutine râpée is an Acadian boiled dumpling, made from grated and mashed potato, with pork in the center. They can be eaten savoury in a soup, or with butter, salt and pepper, mustard, or ketchup; or sweet with brown sugar, maple syrup, cranberry sauce, fruits, sugar, or molasses. Day old dumplings can be sliced and fried in butter.

The ratio is 2 parts raw to 1 part boiled potato.

Variation: Add salt, baking powder, and flour to the grated potatoes. Steam in a large cotton bag.

1/2 pound (250 g.) fatty salt pork
10 potatoes, raw, grated
5 potatoes, boiled, mashed (no butter or milk)
salt and pepper
flour

Soak the salted pork overnight to remove the excess salt. Cut into cubes.

Grate the uncooked potatoes and extract the water by putting them in a cotton bag and squeezing vigorously. Mix the grated potatoes with the mashed potatoes. Add salt and pepper to taste.

Roll the potato mixture into balls about the size of a large orange, make a hole in the center with your thumb, and add a tablespoon of the cubed salted pork. Close the hole, roll the poutine in white flour, then gently lower into a large pot filled with boiling salt water.

Simmer for 2 to 3 hours.

Chicken and dumplings II

From Cook's Illustrated

Serve 6 to 8. Published February 15, 2005.

Don't use low-fat or fat-free milk in this recipe. Start the dumpling dough only when you're ready to top the stew with the dumplings.

Ingredients

Stew
5	pounds bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs
	Table salt and ground black pepper
4	teaspoons vegetable oil
4	tablespoons unsalted butter (1/2 stick)
4	carrots , peeled and sliced 1/4 inch thick
2	ribs celery , sliced 1/4 inch thick
1	large onion , minced
6	tablespoon unbleached all-purpose flour
1/4	cup dry sherry
4 1/2	cups low-sodium chicken broth
1/4	cup whole milk
1	teaspoon minced fresh thyme leaves
2	bay leaves
1	cup frozen green peas
3	tablespoons minced fresh parsley leaves
Dumplings
2	cups unbleached all-purpose flour
1	tablespoon baking powder
1	teaspoon table salt
1	cup whole milk
3	tablespoons reserved chicken fat (or unsalted butter)

Instructions

1. 1. For the Stew: Pat the chicken dry with paper towels, then season with salt and pepper. Heat 2 teaspoons of the oil in a large Dutch oven over medium-high heat until just smoking. Add half of the chicken and cook until golden on both sides, about 10 minutes. Transfer the chicken to a plate and remove the browned skin. Pour off the chicken fat and reserve. Return the pot to medium-high heat and repeat with the remaining 2 teaspoons oil and the remaining chicken. Pour off and reserve any chicken fat.

2. 2. Add the butter to the Dutch oven and melt over medium-high heat. Add the carrots, celery, onion, and 1/4 teaspoon salt and cook until softened, about 7 minutes. Stir in the flour. Whisk in the sherry, scraping up any browned bits. Stir in the broth, milk, thyme, and bay leaves. Nestle the chicken, with any accumulated juices, into the pot. Cover and simmer until the chicken is fully cooked and tender, about 1 hour.

3. 3. Transfer the chicken to a cutting board. Discard the bay leaves. Allow the sauce to settle for a few minutes, then skim the fat from the surface using a wide spoon. Shred the chicken, discarding the bones, then return it to the stew.

4. 4. For the Dumplings: Stir the flour, baking powder, and salt together. Microwave the milk and fat in a microwave-safe bowl on high until just warm (do not over-heat), about 1 minute. Stir the warmed milk mixture into the flour mixture with a wooden spoon until incorporated and smooth.

5. 5. Return the stew to a simmer, stir in the peas and parsley, and season with salt and pepper. Following the photos below, drop golf-ball-sized dumplings over the top of the stew, about 1/4 inch apart (you should have about 18 dumplings). Reduce the heat to low, cover, and cook until the dumplings have doubled in size, 15 to 18 minutes. Serve.

Getting it Right: Adding the Dumplings

1. Gather a golf-ball-sized portion of the dumpling batter onto a soup spoon, then push the dumpling onto the stew using a second spoon.

2. Cover the stew with the dumplings, leaving about 1/4 inch between each.

3. When fully cooked, the dumplings will have doubled in size.

German bacon and onion tart (flammekueche)

From Cook's Illustrated

Serves 4 as a main course, or 6 as an appetizer. Published October 3, 2007. Web Exclusive.

For the lightest, crispest crust, use an unbleached all-purpose flour with a protein content no higher than 10.5 percent, such as Gold Medal or Pillsbury. Serve the tart with a salad for dinner, or cut it into small pieces and serve as an appetizer. This tart tastes great with Gewürztraminer (a German white wine).

This recipe was published in our cookbook The Best International Recipe.

Ingredients

Tart Dough
2	cups unbleached all-purpose flour (10 ounces), plus extra as needed
1/2	teaspoon instant yeast
1/2	teaspoon honey
1/2	teaspoon salt
3/4	cup warm water , plus 2 tablespoons (100 to 105 degrees)
1/4	cup vegetable oil
Topping
1	cup crème fraîche or sour cream
	Table salt and ground black pepper or ground white pepper
1/2	teaspoon fresh grated nutmeg
8	ounces thick-cut bacon (about 6 slices), cut crosswise into 1/4-inch strips
4	medium onions , halved and sliced thin (about 4 cups)

Instructions

1. 1. For the tart dough: Combine the flour, yeast, honey, and salt in a food processor. With the machine running, add the water through the feed tube, followed by the vegetable oil. Continue to process until the dough forms a ball, about 30 seconds.

2. 2. Turn the dough out onto the counter and knead by hand for 30 seconds, adding extra flour if the dough is sticky. Wrap the dough in plastic wrap and refrigerate for 2 hours, or up to 2 days.

3. 3. Adjust an oven rack to the lowest position, set a baking stone on the rack, and heat the oven to 500 degrees; let the baking stone heat for 1 hour.

4. 4. For the topping: Meanwhile, mix the crème fraîche, 1 teaspoon salt, 1/2 teaspoon pepper, and nutmeg together, cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate until needed.

5. 5. Cook the bacon in a 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat until browned and most of the fat has rendered, about 10 minutes. Transfer the bacon to a paper towel-lined plate, leaving the fat in the skillet. Add the onions and 1/2 teaspoon salt to the fat left in the skillet, cover, and cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until the onions are softened and have released their juices, about 10 minutes. Uncover and continue to cook, stirring often, until the onions begin to brown, about 6 minutes; set aside off the heat.

6. 6. To assemble and bake: Remove the dough from the refrigerator. Divide it into two equal pieces, forming each piece into a ball. Place one ball on a lightly floured sheet of parchment paper and cover with one large sheet of plastic wrap (or two small overlapping pieces). Using a rolling pin, roll the dough into a 15 by 9-inch oval. Slide the parchment paper with the dough onto an inverted baking sheet.

7. 7. Spread half of the crème fraîche mixture over the dough, leaving a 1/2-inch border at the edge. Scatter half of the onion mixture and half of the bacon over the top. Slide the parchment with the tart onto the heated baking stone. Bake until the edges of the tart are golden brown and the parchment releases from the tart bottom, 5 to 7 minutes. While the first tart bakes, roll out and assemble the second tart on a sheet of parchment paper using the remaining dough and topping. Cut the baked tarts into about 6 pieces, and serve immediately.

Refried beans

From Cook's Illustrated

Makes 3 cups. Published January 1, 2006.

If you wish to use dried beans, you can find our basic bean recipe, (see related recipe). Substitute reserved cooking water for chicken broth (you may need to add another 2 to 3 tablespoons of cooking water or broth in step 3 if the beans appear too stiff).

Ingredients

1/2	cup low-sodium chicken broth
2	(15.5 ounces each) cans pinto beans , drained and rinsed
1	tablespoon vegetable oil
3	ounces salt pork , rind removed and diced very small
1	small onion , chopped fine (about 3/4 cup)
1	jalapeno chile , seeds and ribs removed, chile minced
1	poblano chile , seeds and ribs removed, chile chopped fine (about 1/4 cup)
1/4	teaspoon table salt
3	small cloves garlic , minced or pressed through garlic press (about 1 1/2 teaspoons)
1/2	teaspoon ground cumin
1	tablespoon minced fresh cilantro leaves
2	teaspoons fresh lime juice (optional)

Instructions

1. 1. Process broth and all but 1 cup of beans in food processor until smooth, about 15 seconds, scraping sides of bowl with rubber spatula if necessary. Add remaining beans and process until slightly chunky, about ten 1-second pulses.

2. 2. Heat oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat until shimmering. Add salt pork and cook, stirring occasionally, until fat has rendered and pork is well browned, about 10 to 15 minutes. Transfer pork to small bowl with slotted spoon and set aside (you should have about 2 tablespoons of fat left in skillet.)

3. 3. Increase heat to medium-high; add onion, chiles, and salt and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened and beginning to brown, about 5 minutes. Add garlic and cumin; cook, stirring frequently, until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add beans and stir until thoroughly combined. Reduce heat to medium and cook, stirring occasionally, until beans are thick and creamy, about 5 minutes. Stir in cilantro and lime juice, if using, and serve.

Chicken fajitas indoors

From Cook's Illustrated

Variations: Chicken fajitas for charcoal grill and Chicken fajitas for gas grill

Serves 4 to 6. Published September 1, 2005.

The chicken and vegetables in these fajitas are only mildly spicy. For more heat, include the jalapeño seeds and ribs when mincing. Although the chicken and vegetables have enough flavor to stand on their own, accompaniments (guacamole, salsa, sour cream, shredded cheddar or Monterey Jack cheese, and/or lime wedges) can be offered at the table. The chicken tenderloins can be reserved for another use or marinated and cooked along with the breasts.

Ingredients

1/3	cup lime juice (from 2 to 3 limes)
6	tablespoons vegetable oil
3	medium cloves garlic , minced or pressed through garlic press (about 1 tablespoon)
1	tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
1 1/2	teaspoons brown sugar
1	jalapeño chile , seeds and ribs removed, chile minced
1 1/2	tablespoons minced fresh cilantro leaves
	Table salt and ground black pepper
3	boneless, skinless chicken breasts (about 1 1/2 pounds), trimmed of fat, tenderloins removed, breasts pounded to 1/2-inch thickness
1	large red onion (about 14 ounces), peeled and cut into 1/2-inch-thick rounds (do not separate rings)
1	large red bell pepper (about 10 ounces), quartered, stemmed, and seeded
1	large green bell pepper (about 10 ounces), quartered, stemmed, and seeded
8 - 12	plain flour tortillas (6-inch)

Instructions

1. 1. In medium bowl, whisk together lime juice, 4 tablespoons oil, garlic, Worcestershire, brown sugar, jalapeño, cilantro, 1 teaspoon salt, and 3/4 teaspoon pepper. Reserve 1/4 cup marinade in small bowl; set aside. Add another teaspoon salt to remaining marinade. Place chicken in marinade; cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate 15 minutes.

2. 2. Adjust one oven rack to upper-middle position (about 8 inches from heating element) and second rack to lower-middle position; heat broiler.

3. 3. Brush both sides of onion rounds and peppers with 2 tablespoons oil and season with salt and pepper. Arrange onion rounds and peppers (skin sides up) in single layer on rimmed baking sheet. Wrap tortillas securely in foil in two packets, each containing half of tortillas.

4. 4. Remove chicken from marinade and pat dry with paper towels; discard marinade. Heat remaining 2 teaspoons oil in 12-inch nonstick or cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat until just beginning to smoke. Swirl oil to coat skillet, then arrange chicken smooth side down in skillet in single layer; cook without moving chicken, until well browned, about 3 minutes. Using tongs, flip chicken; continue to cook until second sides are well browned, about 2 minutes. Reduce heat to medium and continue to cook, turning chicken once or twice, until chicken is no longer pink when cut into with paring knife or instant-read thermometer inserted in thickest part registers 160 degrees, 3 to 5 minutes longer. Transfer chicken to large plate and let rest 5 minutes.

5. 5. While chicken is cooking, place baking sheet with vegetables in oven on upper rack; place tortilla packets on lower rack. Broil vegetables until spottily charred and peppers are crisp-tender, 6 to 8 minutes. Using tongs, transfer peppers to cutting board. Flip onion rounds and continue to broil until charred and tender, 2 to 4 minutes longer. Turn off broiler and remove vegetables, leaving tortillas in oven until needed.

6. 6. Separate onions into rings and place in medium bowl; slice bell peppers lengthwise into 1/4-inch strips and place in bowl with onions. Add 2 tablespoons reserved unused marinade to vegetables and toss well to combine. Slice chicken into 1/4-inch strips and toss with remaining 2 tablespoons reserved marinade in separate bowl; arrange chicken and vegetables on large platter and serve with warmed tortillas.

Huevos rancheros

From Cook's Illustrated

Serves 2 to 4. Published January 1, 2006.

To save time in the morning, make the salsa the day before and store it overnight in the refrigerator. For extra-spicy salsa, add some of the reserved jalapeño ribs and seeds to taste. If you need to hold the tortillas for a short time, cover the baking sheet with foil. If you like, serve with refried beans (see related recipe).

Ingredients

3	medium jalapeño chiles , halved, seeds and ribs removed (see note above)
1 1/2	pounds plum tomatoes (about 8 medium), cored and halved
1/2	medium yellow onion , cut into 1/2-inch wedges
2	medium cloves garlic , peeled
1	tablespoon tomato paste
	Table salt
3	tablespoons vegetable oil
1/2	teaspoon ground cumin
1/8	teaspoon cayenne pepper
3	tablespoons minced fresh cilantro leaves
	Ground black pepper
1 - 2	tablespoons fresh lime juice from 1 or 2 limes, plus additional lime cut into wedges for serving
4	corn tortillas
4	large eggs

Instructions

1. 1. FOR THE SALSA: Adjust oven rack to middle position; heat oven to 375 degrees. Mince one jalapeño and set aside. In medium bowl, combine tomatoes, remaining jalapeños, onion, garlic, tomato paste, 1 teaspoon salt, 2 tablespoons oil, cumin, and cayenne; toss to mix thoroughly. Place vegetables cut side down on rimmed baking sheet. Roast until tomatoes are tender and skins begin to shrivel and brown, 35 to 45 minutes; cool on baking sheet for 10 minutes. Increase oven heat to 450 degrees. Using tongs, transfer roasted onions, garlic, and jalapeños to bowl of food processor. Process until almost completely broken down, about 10 seconds, pausing halfway through to scrape sides of bowl with rubber spatula. Add tomatoes and process until salsa is slightly chunky, about 10 seconds more. Add 2 tablespoons cilantro, reserved minced jalapeño, salt, pepper, and lime juice to taste.

2. 2. FOR THE TORTILLAS: Brush both sides of each tortilla lightly with remaining tablespoon oil, sprinkle both sides with salt, and place on clean baking sheet. Bake until tops just begin to color, 5 to 7 minutes; flip tortillas and continue to bake until golden brown, 2 to 3 minutes more.

3. 3. FOR THE EGGS: Meanwhile, bring salsa to gentle simmer in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat. Remove from heat and make four shallow wells in salsa with back of large spoon. Break 1 egg into cup, then carefully pour egg into well in salsa; repeat with remaining eggs. Season each egg with salt and pepper to taste, then cover skillet and place over medium-low heat. Cook until desired doneness: 4 to 5 minutes for runny yolks, 6 to 7 minutes for set yolks.

4. 4. TO SERVE: Place tortillas on serving plates; gently scoop one egg onto each tortilla. Spoon salsa around each egg, covering tortillas, but leaving portion of eggs exposed. Sprinkle with remaining cilantro and serve with lime wedges.

Three Steps to Better Huevos Rancheros

ROAST: Slow-roasting improved the flavor of supermarket tomatoes while intensifying the other salsa ingredients.

TOAST: Crisping store-bought tortillas in the oven yielded the best texture -- light and crispy, not tough or greasy.

POACH: Poaching the eggs in small wells made in the salsa improved their flavor and left us with just one pot to watch.

Steak tacos

From Cook's Illustrated

Serves 4 to 6. Published September 1, 2008. From Cook's Illustrated.

For a less spicy dish, remove some or all of the ribs and seeds from the jalapeños before chopping them for the marinade. In addition to the toppings suggested below, try serving the tacos with Sweet and Spicy Pickled Onions (see related recipe), thinly sliced radishes or cucumber, or salsa.

Ingredients

Herb Paste
1/2	cup packed fresh cilantro leaves
3	medium garlic cloves , roughly chopped
3	medium scallions , roughly chopped (about 1/3 cup)
1	medium jalapeño chile , stemmed and roughly chopped (see note)
1/2	teaspoon ground cumin
1/4	cup vegetable oil
1	tablespoon fresh lime juice
Steak
1	flank steak (1 1/2 to 1 3/4 pounds), trimmed of excess fat and cut lengthwise (with grain) into 4 equal pieces (see below)
1	tablespoon kosher salt or 1 1/2 teaspoons table salt
1/2	teaspoon sugar
1/2	teaspoon ground black pepper
2	tablespoons vegetable oil
Tacos
12	(6-inch) corn tortillas , warmed (see note)
	Fresh cilantro leaves
	Minced white or red onion
	Lime wedges

Instructions

1. 1. FOR THE HERB PASTE: Pulse cilantro, garlic, scallions, jalapeño, and cumin in food processor until finely chopped, ten to twelve 1-second pulses, scraping down sides as necessary. Add oil and process until mixture is smooth and resembles pesto, about 15 seconds, scraping down sides of workbowl as necessary. Transfer 2 tablespoons herb paste to medium bowl; whisk in lime juice and set aside.

2. 2. FOR THE STEAK: Using dinner fork, poke each piece of steak 10 to 12 times on each side. Place in large baking dish; rub all sides of steak pieces
   evenly with salt and then coat with remaining herb paste. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate at least 30 minutes or up to 1 hour.

3. 3. Scrape herb paste off steak and sprinkle all sides of pieces evenly with sugar and pepper. Heat oil in 12-inch heavy-bottomed nonstick skillet over medium-high heat until smoking. Place steak in skillet and cook until well browned, about 3 minutes. Flip steak and sear until second side is well browned, 2 to 3 minutes. Using tongs, stand each piece on a cut side and cook, turning as necessary, until all cut sides are well browned and internal temperature registers 125 to 130 degrees on an instant-read thermometer, 2 to 7 minutes. Transfer steak to cutting board and let rest 5 minutes.

4. 4. FOR THE TACOS: Using sharp chef’s knife or carving knife, slice steak pieces across grain into 1/8-inch-thick pieces. Transfer sliced steak to bowl with herb paste-lime juice mixture and toss to coat. Season with salt. Spoon small amount of sliced steak into center of each warm tortilla and serve immediately, passing toppings separately.

How to Warm Tortillas Our preferred method for warming tortillas is to place each one over the medium flame of a gas burner until slightly charred, about 30 seconds per side. We also like toasting them in a dry skillet over medium-high heat until softened and speckled with brown spots, 20 to 30 seconds per side. You can also use the oven: Divide the tortillas into 2 stacks and wrap each stack in foil. Heat the tortillas on the middle rack of a 350-degree oven for 5 minutes.

Keep the warmed tortillas wrapped in foil or a kitchen towel until ready to use or they will dry out. (If your tortillas are very dry, pat each with a little water before warming.)

Keys to Tender, Flavorful Beef
1. Cut: Slice flank steak into strips that can be browned on all sides.
2. Poke: Pierce steak pieces with fork to allow herb paste to penetrate.
3. Salt: Season meat and coat with herb paste; let stand at least 30 minutes.
4. Sear: Cook steak in generous 2 tablespoons oil to promote browning.
5. Slice: Cut steak thinly across grain to ensure tenderness.
6. Toss: Mix steak with more herb paste and lime juice to brighten flavors.

Corn Tortillas for Tacos The rule of thumb when buying tortillas is to buy a brand made with nothing more than ground corn treated with lime (an alkali that removes the germ and hull) and water. Look for brands sold in the refrigerator case of the supermarket, as these have few, if any, preservatives and tend to be more moist and flavorful.

Mexican pulled pork (carnitas)

From Cook's Illustrated

Serves 6. Published May 1, 2008. From Cook's Illustrated.

We like serving carnitas spooned into tacos, but you can also use it as a filling for tamales, enchiladas, and burritos.

Ingredients

Pork
1	(3 1/2-to 4-pound) boneless pork butt , fat cap trimmed to 1/8 inch thick, cut into 2-inch chunks
	Table salt and ground black pepper
1	teaspoon ground cumin
1	small onion , peeled and halved
2	bay leaves
1	teaspoon dried oregano
2	tablespoons juice from 1 lime
2	cups water
1	medium orange , halved
Tortillas and Garnishes
18	(6-inch) corn tortillas , warmed
	Lime wedges
	Minced white or red onion
	Fresh cilantro leaves
	Thinly sliced radishes
	Sour cream

Instructions

1. 1. Adjust oven rack to lower-middle position and heat oven to 300 degrees. Combine pork, 1 teaspoon salt, 1/2 teaspoon pepper, cumin, onion, bay leaves, oregano, lime juice, and water in large Dutch oven (liquid should just barely cover meat). Juice orange into medium bowl and remove any seeds (you should have about 1/3 cup juice). Add juice and spent orange halves to pot. Bring mixture to simmer over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally. Cover pot and transfer to oven; cook until meat is soft and falls apart when prodded with fork, about 2 hours, flipping pieces of meat once during cooking.

2. 2. Remove pot from oven and turn oven to broil. Using slotted spoon, transfer pork to bowl; remove orange halves, onion, and bay leaves from cooking liquid and discard (do not skim fat from liquid). Place pot over high heat (use caution, as handles will be very hot) and simmer liquid, stirring frequently, until thick and syrupy (heatsafe spatula should leave wide trail when dragged through glaze), 8 to 12 minutes. You should have about 1 cup reduced liquid.

3. 3. Using 2 forks, pull each piece of pork in half. Fold in reduced liquid; season with salt and pepper to taste. Spread pork in even layer on wire rack set inside rimmed baking sheet or on broiler pan (meat should cover almost entire surface of rack or broiler pan). Place baking sheet on lower-middle rack and broil until top of meat is well browned (but not charred) and edges are slightly crisp, 5 to 8 minutes. Using wide metal spatula, flip pieces of meat and continue to broil until top is well browned and edges are slightly crisp, 5 to 8 minutes longer. Serve immediately with warm tortillas and garnishes.

Don't Cut the Fat Leaving a 1/8-inch layer of fat on the pork is critical to imparting the best flavor and texture to the final dish. Overtrimming the meat will lead to dry, bland carnitas.

South vs. South of the Border Southern-style barbecued pulled pork (at left) is cooked outdoors in a smoker to create uniformly tender meat that’s served drenched in barbecue sauce. The pork in our carnitas recipe is cooked in the oven and features a soft interior and a crisp, caramelized exterior complemented by garnishes, not sauce.

Three Steps to Indoor Pulled Pork

1. OVEN-BRAISE
For fall-apart tender meat, oven-braise the pork at a low temperature in a covered Dutch oven for about two hours.

2. REDUCE
Remove the pork and reduce the braising liquid to a glaze thick enough for a spatula to leave a trail when pulled through it.

3. BROIL
Toss the pork with the glaze and broil it on the lower-middle rack in the oven to yield well-browned meat with crisp edges.

Classic fajitas

From Cook's Illustrated

Variations: Charcoal-grilled beef fajitas and Gas-grilled beef fajitas

Serves 8. Published July 1, 1999.

Although it was originally made with skirt steak, this combination of steak and vegetables grilled and then wrapped in warm tortillas is the dish that put flank steak on the culinary map in the United States. The ingredients go on the grill in order as the fire dies down: steak over a hot fire, vegetables over a medium fire, and tortillas around the edge of the medium to low fire just to warm them.

Ingredients

Chunky Guacamole
3	medium avocados (preferably Hass)
2	tablespoons minced onion
1	medium clove garlic , minced
1	small jalapeño chile , minced (1 to 1 1/2 teaspoons)
1/4	cup minced fresh cilantro leaves
1/4	teaspoon table salt
1/2	teaspoon ground cumin (optional)
2	tablespoons lime juice
Classic Red Table Salsa
3	large vine-ripened tomatoes (about 2 pounds), diced small
1/2	cup tomato juice
1	small chipotle chile , minced (about 2 tablespoons)
1	medium red onion , diced small
1	medium clove garlic , minced
1/2	cup chopped fresh cilantro leaves
1/2	cup lime juice from 4 medium limes
	Table salt
Fajitas
1	flank steak (about 2 1/2 pounds)
1/4	cup lime juice from 2 medium limes
	Table salt and ground black pepper
1	very large onion , peeled and cut into half-inch slices
2	very large red bell peppers or green bell peppers, cored, seeded, and cut into large wedges
16	plain flour tortillas (10-inch)

Instructions

1. Chunky Guacamole

2. 1. Halve one avocado, remove pit, and scoop flesh into medium bowl. Mash flesh lightly with onion, garlic, jalapeño, cilantro, salt, and cumin (if using) with tines of a fork until just combined.

3. 2. Halve and pit remaining two avocados, and prepare. Gently scoop out avocado into bowl with mashed avocado mixture.

4. 3. Sprinkle lime juice over diced avocado and mix entire contents of bowl lightly with fork until combined but still chunky. Adjust seasoning with salt, if necessary, and serve. (Can be covered with plastic wrap, pressed directly onto surface of mixture, and refrigerated up to one day. Return guacamole to room temperature, removing plastic wrap at the last moment, before serving).

5. Classic Red Table Salsa

6. 4. Mix all ingredients, including salt to taste, in medium bowl. Cover and refrigerate to blend flavors, at least 1 hour or up to 5 days.

7. Fajitas

8. 5. For Charcoal Grill:Ignite about 7 quarts charcoal and burn until coals are completely covered with thin coating of light-gray ash, 20 to 30 minutes. Pile coals on one-half of grill bottom, position grill rack and heat until very hot (you can hold your hand 5 inches above grill surface for 2 seconds). For Gas Grill: Turn all burners on gas grill to high, close lid, and heat grill until hot, 10 to 15 minutes.

9. 6. Generously sprinkle both sides of steak with lime juice, salt and pepper; place directly over coals or on gas grill grate and grill until well-seared and dark brown on first side, 5 to 7 minutes (4 to 6 minutes, covered, on gas grill). Flip steak using tongs; continue grilling on second side until interior of meat is slightly less done than you want it to be when you eat it, 2 to 5 minutes (3 to 5 minutes on gas grill) more for medium-rare (depending on heat of fire and thickness of steak). Transfer meat to cutting board; cover loosely with foil, and let rest 5 to 10 minutes. Slice very thin, on bias against the grain; adjust seasoning with additional salt and pepper.

10. 7. When charcoal fire has died down to medium or gas grill burners are adjusted to medium (you can hold your hand 5 inches above grill surface for 4 seconds), grill onions and peppers, turning occasionally, until onions are lightly charred, about 6 minutes, and
    peppers are streaked with dark grill marks, about 10 minutes. Remove onions and peppers from grill and cut peppers into long, thin strips; set aside. Arrange tortillas around edge of
    grill; heat until just warmed, about 20 seconds per side. (Do not dry out tortillas or they get brittle; wrap tortillas in towel to keep warm.) Remove to platter; set aside.

11. Serving Fajitas

12. 8. Arrange sliced meat and vegetables on large platter; serve immediately, with tortillas, salsa, and guacamole passed separately.

Braised beef brisket, Oaxacan style

From Cook's Illustrated

Serves 8 - 10. Published March 1, 1995.

It is important to have a good quality, instant-read thermometer with a scale of 0 to 220 degrees. An accurate oven thermometer is useful as well. Basting with the braising liquid produces a rich, flavorful glaze. Warm tortillas and salsa make nice accompaniments.

Ingredients

1	tablespoon black peppercorns
2	teaspoons cumin seed
1	teaspoon coriander seeds
1	tablespoon chili powder
1	beef brisket (about 5 pounds), surface fat retained
3	tablespoons vegetable oil
3-5	cups low-sodium chicken broth
1	can diced tomatoes (28 ounces)
2	ounces dried chile peppers (preferably Pasilla), seeded
	kosher salt
2	teaspoons dried thyme
2	teaspoons dried oregano
3	medium onions , quartered
1	head garlic , halved crosswise
	fresh parsley leaves , for garnish

Instructions

1. 1. Heat oven to 500 degrees. Crush spices or grind them coarsely; press them into brisket and set aside

2. 2. Using two burners if necessary, heat oil in large, heavy roasting pan long and wide enough to hold brisket and at least 2 inches deep. Add brisket; cook over medium-high heat, turning once with tongs, until brown on both sides, about 10 minutes. Remove brisket and set aside. Add 1 cup broth, tomatoes and chiles; bring to boil, scraping bottom of pan with wooden spoon to loosen brown bits; reduce by half. Remove pan from heat. Season brisket lightly with thyme, oregano and salt, and return to roasting pan. Scatter onions and garlic around brisket.

3. 3. Put roasting pan in oven and cook, stirring vegetables occasionally to avoid burning, until thickest part of brisket reaches an internal temperature of around 130 degrees, about 20 minutes.

4. 4. Remove pan from oven; reduce oven temperature to 250 degrees. Do not return brisket to oven until temperature drops to 250 degrees. Add enough chicken broth to pan so that liquid comes about halfway up side of meat (2 to 4 more cups), baste brisket, and return to oven. Braise brisket, basting and turning every 1/2 hour or so, until meat just gives when pierced with meat thermometer and brisket’s internal temperature registers around 175 degrees, 1 1/2 to 2 1/2 hours.

5. 5. Remove brisket from braising liquid and wrap in foil. Strain braising liquid into large mixing bowl. Reserve vegetables, squeezing garlic cloves from heads. Transfer braising liquid to tall, narrow container, and let stand until fat rises. Skim and discard fat. Puree vegetables, including garlic, with 1/2 cup braising liquid in food processor or blender. Add pureed vegetables and braising liquid to a sauté pan and simmer until reduced to thin sauce consistency.

6. 6. Meanwhile, cut brisket across the grain into thin slices (about 1/8-inch thick). Arrange slices of meat on warm plates; generously ladle sauce over meat. Garnish with parsley, and serve immediately.

Chili con carne

From Cook's Illustrated

Serves 6. Published March 1, 1998.

To ensure the best chile flavor, I recommend toasting whole dried chiles and grinding them in a mini-chopper or spice-dedicated coffee grinder, all of which takes only ten (very well-spent) minutes. Select dried chiles that are moist and pliant, like dried fruit. Count on trimming one-half to a full pound of waste from your chuck roast, so start with a four-pound roast to end up with three to three-and-a-half pounds of beef cubes. For hotter chili, boost the heat with a pinch of cayenne, a dash of hot pepper sauce, or crumbled pequin chiles near the end of cooking. Serve the chili with any of the following side dishes: warm pinto or kidney beans, corn bread or chips, corn tortillas or tamales, rice, biscuits, or just plain crackers, and top with any of the following garnishes: chopped fresh cilantro leaves, minced white onion, diced avocado, shredded cheddar or jack cheese, or sour cream.

Ingredients

3	tablespoons ancho chili powder or 3 medium pods (about 1/2 ounce), toasted and ground (see illustrations below)
3	tablespoons New Mexico chili powder or 3 medium pods (about 3/4 ounce), toasted and ground
2	tablespoons cumin seeds , toasted in a dry skillet over medium heat until fragrant, about 4 minutes, and ground
2	teaspoons dried oregano , preferably Mexican
7 1/2	cups water , divided
1	beef chuck roast (4-pounds), trimmed of excess fat and cut into 1-inch cubes
2	teaspoons table salt , plus extra for seasoning
8	ounces bacon (7 or 8 slices), cut into 1/4-inch pieces
1	medium onion , minced (about 1 cup)
5	medium cloves garlic , minced
4 - 5	small jalapeño chiles , cored, seeded, and minced
1	cup crushed tomatoes (canned), or plain tomato sauce
2	tablespoons lime juice from 1 medium lime
5	tablespoons masa harina or 3 tablespoons cornstarch
	Ground black pepper

Instructions

1. 1. Mix chili powders, cumin, and oregano in small bowl and stir in 1/2 cup water to form thick paste; set aside. Toss beef cubes with salt; set aside.
   
   

2. 2. Fry bacon in large, heavy soup kettle or Dutch oven over medium-low heat until fat renders and bacon crisps, about 10 minutes. Remove bacon with slotted spoon to paper towel-lined plate; pour all but 2 teaspoons fat from pot into small bowl; set aside. Increase heat to medium-high; sauté meat in four batches until well-browned on all sides, about 5 minutes per batch, adding additional 2 teaspoons bacon fat to pot as necessary. Reduce heat to medium, add 3 tablespoons bacon fat to now-empty pan. Add onion; sauté until softened, 5 to 6 minutes. Add garlic and jalapeño; sauté until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add chili paste; sauté until fragrant, 2 to 3 minutes. Add reserved bacon and browned beef, crushed tomatoes or tomato sauce, lime juice, and 7 cups water; bring to simmer. Continue to cook at a steady simmer until meat is tender and juices are dark, rich, and starting to thicken, about 2 hours.
   
   

3. 3. Mix masa harina with 2/3 cup water (or cornstarch with 3 tablespoons water) in a small bowl to form smooth paste. Increase heat to medium; stir in paste and simmer until thickened, 5 to 10 minutes. Adjust seasoning generously with salt and ground black pepper. Serve immediately, or preferably, cool slightly, cover, and refrigerate overnight or for up to 5 days. Reheat before serving.

Toasting and Preparing the Chiles

1. Dried chile pods toasted in a 350-degree oven for about 6 minutes become fragrant and puffed.

2. When cool enough to handle, remove stems and seeds from the pods, rip them into pieces, and process until powdery, 30 to 45 seconds.

Chunky guacamole

From Cook's Illustrated

Makes 2 1/2 to 3 cups. Published May 1, 1999.

To minimize the risk of discoloration, prepare the minced ingredients first so they are ready to mix with the avocados as soon as they are cut.

Ingredients

3	medium avocados , ripe, (preferably Hass)
2	tablespoons minced onion
1	medium clove garlic , minced
1	small jalapeño chile , minced (1 to 1 1/2 teaspoons)
1/4	cup minced fresh cilantro leaves
1/4	teaspoon table salt
1/2	teaspoon ground cumin (optional)
2	tablespoons lime juice

Instructions

1. 1. Halve one avocado, remove pit, and scoop flesh into medium bowl. Mash flesh lightly with onion, garlic, jalapeño, cilantro, salt, and cumin (if using) with tines of a fork until just combined.

2. 2. Halve and pit remaining two avocados, and prepare. Gently scoop out avocado into bowl with mashed avocado mixture.

3. 3. Sprinkle lime juice over diced avocado and mix entire contents of bowl lightly with fork until combined but still chunky. Adjust seasoning with salt, if necessary, and serve. (Can be covered with plastic wrap, pressed directly onto surface of mixture, and refrigerated up to one day. Return guacamole to room temperature, removing plastic wrap at the last moment, before serving).