Steak tacos

From Cook's Illustrated

Serves 4 to 6. Published September 1, 2008. From Cook's Illustrated.

For a less spicy dish, remove some or all of the ribs and seeds from the jalapeños before chopping them for the marinade. In addition to the toppings suggested below, try serving the tacos with Sweet and Spicy Pickled Onions (see related recipe), thinly sliced radishes or cucumber, or salsa.

Ingredients

Herb Paste
1/2	cup packed fresh cilantro leaves
3	medium garlic cloves , roughly chopped
3	medium scallions , roughly chopped (about 1/3 cup)
1	medium jalapeño chile , stemmed and roughly chopped (see note)
1/2	teaspoon ground cumin
1/4	cup vegetable oil
1	tablespoon fresh lime juice
Steak
1	flank steak (1 1/2 to 1 3/4 pounds), trimmed of excess fat and cut lengthwise (with grain) into 4 equal pieces (see below)
1	tablespoon kosher salt or 1 1/2 teaspoons table salt
1/2	teaspoon sugar
1/2	teaspoon ground black pepper
2	tablespoons vegetable oil
Tacos
12	(6-inch) corn tortillas , warmed (see note)
	Fresh cilantro leaves
	Minced white or red onion
	Lime wedges

Instructions

1. 1. FOR THE HERB PASTE: Pulse cilantro, garlic, scallions, jalapeño, and cumin in food processor until finely chopped, ten to twelve 1-second pulses, scraping down sides as necessary. Add oil and process until mixture is smooth and resembles pesto, about 15 seconds, scraping down sides of workbowl as necessary. Transfer 2 tablespoons herb paste to medium bowl; whisk in lime juice and set aside.

2. 2. FOR THE STEAK: Using dinner fork, poke each piece of steak 10 to 12 times on each side. Place in large baking dish; rub all sides of steak pieces
   evenly with salt and then coat with remaining herb paste. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate at least 30 minutes or up to 1 hour.

3. 3. Scrape herb paste off steak and sprinkle all sides of pieces evenly with sugar and pepper. Heat oil in 12-inch heavy-bottomed nonstick skillet over medium-high heat until smoking. Place steak in skillet and cook until well browned, about 3 minutes. Flip steak and sear until second side is well browned, 2 to 3 minutes. Using tongs, stand each piece on a cut side and cook, turning as necessary, until all cut sides are well browned and internal temperature registers 125 to 130 degrees on an instant-read thermometer, 2 to 7 minutes. Transfer steak to cutting board and let rest 5 minutes.

4. 4. FOR THE TACOS: Using sharp chef’s knife or carving knife, slice steak pieces across grain into 1/8-inch-thick pieces. Transfer sliced steak to bowl with herb paste-lime juice mixture and toss to coat. Season with salt. Spoon small amount of sliced steak into center of each warm tortilla and serve immediately, passing toppings separately.

How to Warm Tortillas Our preferred method for warming tortillas is to place each one over the medium flame of a gas burner until slightly charred, about 30 seconds per side. We also like toasting them in a dry skillet over medium-high heat until softened and speckled with brown spots, 20 to 30 seconds per side. You can also use the oven: Divide the tortillas into 2 stacks and wrap each stack in foil. Heat the tortillas on the middle rack of a 350-degree oven for 5 minutes.

Keep the warmed tortillas wrapped in foil or a kitchen towel until ready to use or they will dry out. (If your tortillas are very dry, pat each with a little water before warming.)

Keys to Tender, Flavorful Beef
1. Cut: Slice flank steak into strips that can be browned on all sides.
2. Poke: Pierce steak pieces with fork to allow herb paste to penetrate.
3. Salt: Season meat and coat with herb paste; let stand at least 30 minutes.
4. Sear: Cook steak in generous 2 tablespoons oil to promote browning.
5. Slice: Cut steak thinly across grain to ensure tenderness.
6. Toss: Mix steak with more herb paste and lime juice to brighten flavors.

Corn Tortillas for Tacos The rule of thumb when buying tortillas is to buy a brand made with nothing more than ground corn treated with lime (an alkali that removes the germ and hull) and water. Look for brands sold in the refrigerator case of the supermarket, as these have few, if any, preservatives and tend to be more moist and flavorful.

Classic fajitas

From Cook's Illustrated

Variations: Charcoal-grilled beef fajitas and Gas-grilled beef fajitas

Serves 8. Published July 1, 1999.

Although it was originally made with skirt steak, this combination of steak and vegetables grilled and then wrapped in warm tortillas is the dish that put flank steak on the culinary map in the United States. The ingredients go on the grill in order as the fire dies down: steak over a hot fire, vegetables over a medium fire, and tortillas around the edge of the medium to low fire just to warm them.

Ingredients

Chunky Guacamole
3	medium avocados (preferably Hass)
2	tablespoons minced onion
1	medium clove garlic , minced
1	small jalapeño chile , minced (1 to 1 1/2 teaspoons)
1/4	cup minced fresh cilantro leaves
1/4	teaspoon table salt
1/2	teaspoon ground cumin (optional)
2	tablespoons lime juice
Classic Red Table Salsa
3	large vine-ripened tomatoes (about 2 pounds), diced small
1/2	cup tomato juice
1	small chipotle chile , minced (about 2 tablespoons)
1	medium red onion , diced small
1	medium clove garlic , minced
1/2	cup chopped fresh cilantro leaves
1/2	cup lime juice from 4 medium limes
	Table salt
Fajitas
1	flank steak (about 2 1/2 pounds)
1/4	cup lime juice from 2 medium limes
	Table salt and ground black pepper
1	very large onion , peeled and cut into half-inch slices
2	very large red bell peppers or green bell peppers, cored, seeded, and cut into large wedges
16	plain flour tortillas (10-inch)

Instructions

1. Chunky Guacamole

2. 1. Halve one avocado, remove pit, and scoop flesh into medium bowl. Mash flesh lightly with onion, garlic, jalapeño, cilantro, salt, and cumin (if using) with tines of a fork until just combined.

3. 2. Halve and pit remaining two avocados, and prepare. Gently scoop out avocado into bowl with mashed avocado mixture.

4. 3. Sprinkle lime juice over diced avocado and mix entire contents of bowl lightly with fork until combined but still chunky. Adjust seasoning with salt, if necessary, and serve. (Can be covered with plastic wrap, pressed directly onto surface of mixture, and refrigerated up to one day. Return guacamole to room temperature, removing plastic wrap at the last moment, before serving).

5. Classic Red Table Salsa

6. 4. Mix all ingredients, including salt to taste, in medium bowl. Cover and refrigerate to blend flavors, at least 1 hour or up to 5 days.

7. Fajitas

8. 5. For Charcoal Grill:Ignite about 7 quarts charcoal and burn until coals are completely covered with thin coating of light-gray ash, 20 to 30 minutes. Pile coals on one-half of grill bottom, position grill rack and heat until very hot (you can hold your hand 5 inches above grill surface for 2 seconds). For Gas Grill: Turn all burners on gas grill to high, close lid, and heat grill until hot, 10 to 15 minutes.

9. 6. Generously sprinkle both sides of steak with lime juice, salt and pepper; place directly over coals or on gas grill grate and grill until well-seared and dark brown on first side, 5 to 7 minutes (4 to 6 minutes, covered, on gas grill). Flip steak using tongs; continue grilling on second side until interior of meat is slightly less done than you want it to be when you eat it, 2 to 5 minutes (3 to 5 minutes on gas grill) more for medium-rare (depending on heat of fire and thickness of steak). Transfer meat to cutting board; cover loosely with foil, and let rest 5 to 10 minutes. Slice very thin, on bias against the grain; adjust seasoning with additional salt and pepper.

10. 7. When charcoal fire has died down to medium or gas grill burners are adjusted to medium (you can hold your hand 5 inches above grill surface for 4 seconds), grill onions and peppers, turning occasionally, until onions are lightly charred, about 6 minutes, and
    peppers are streaked with dark grill marks, about 10 minutes. Remove onions and peppers from grill and cut peppers into long, thin strips; set aside. Arrange tortillas around edge of
    grill; heat until just warmed, about 20 seconds per side. (Do not dry out tortillas or they get brittle; wrap tortillas in towel to keep warm.) Remove to platter; set aside.

11. Serving Fajitas

12. 8. Arrange sliced meat and vegetables on large platter; serve immediately, with tortillas, salsa, and guacamole passed separately.

Braised beef brisket, Oaxacan style

From Cook's Illustrated

Serves 8 - 10. Published March 1, 1995.

It is important to have a good quality, instant-read thermometer with a scale of 0 to 220 degrees. An accurate oven thermometer is useful as well. Basting with the braising liquid produces a rich, flavorful glaze. Warm tortillas and salsa make nice accompaniments.

Ingredients

1	tablespoon black peppercorns
2	teaspoons cumin seed
1	teaspoon coriander seeds
1	tablespoon chili powder
1	beef brisket (about 5 pounds), surface fat retained
3	tablespoons vegetable oil
3-5	cups low-sodium chicken broth
1	can diced tomatoes (28 ounces)
2	ounces dried chile peppers (preferably Pasilla), seeded
	kosher salt
2	teaspoons dried thyme
2	teaspoons dried oregano
3	medium onions , quartered
1	head garlic , halved crosswise
	fresh parsley leaves , for garnish

Instructions

1. 1. Heat oven to 500 degrees. Crush spices or grind them coarsely; press them into brisket and set aside

2. 2. Using two burners if necessary, heat oil in large, heavy roasting pan long and wide enough to hold brisket and at least 2 inches deep. Add brisket; cook over medium-high heat, turning once with tongs, until brown on both sides, about 10 minutes. Remove brisket and set aside. Add 1 cup broth, tomatoes and chiles; bring to boil, scraping bottom of pan with wooden spoon to loosen brown bits; reduce by half. Remove pan from heat. Season brisket lightly with thyme, oregano and salt, and return to roasting pan. Scatter onions and garlic around brisket.

3. 3. Put roasting pan in oven and cook, stirring vegetables occasionally to avoid burning, until thickest part of brisket reaches an internal temperature of around 130 degrees, about 20 minutes.

4. 4. Remove pan from oven; reduce oven temperature to 250 degrees. Do not return brisket to oven until temperature drops to 250 degrees. Add enough chicken broth to pan so that liquid comes about halfway up side of meat (2 to 4 more cups), baste brisket, and return to oven. Braise brisket, basting and turning every 1/2 hour or so, until meat just gives when pierced with meat thermometer and brisket’s internal temperature registers around 175 degrees, 1 1/2 to 2 1/2 hours.

5. 5. Remove brisket from braising liquid and wrap in foil. Strain braising liquid into large mixing bowl. Reserve vegetables, squeezing garlic cloves from heads. Transfer braising liquid to tall, narrow container, and let stand until fat rises. Skim and discard fat. Puree vegetables, including garlic, with 1/2 cup braising liquid in food processor or blender. Add pureed vegetables and braising liquid to a sauté pan and simmer until reduced to thin sauce consistency.

6. 6. Meanwhile, cut brisket across the grain into thin slices (about 1/8-inch thick). Arrange slices of meat on warm plates; generously ladle sauce over meat. Garnish with parsley, and serve immediately.

Chili con carne

From Cook's Illustrated

Serves 6. Published March 1, 1998.

To ensure the best chile flavor, I recommend toasting whole dried chiles and grinding them in a mini-chopper or spice-dedicated coffee grinder, all of which takes only ten (very well-spent) minutes. Select dried chiles that are moist and pliant, like dried fruit. Count on trimming one-half to a full pound of waste from your chuck roast, so start with a four-pound roast to end up with three to three-and-a-half pounds of beef cubes. For hotter chili, boost the heat with a pinch of cayenne, a dash of hot pepper sauce, or crumbled pequin chiles near the end of cooking. Serve the chili with any of the following side dishes: warm pinto or kidney beans, corn bread or chips, corn tortillas or tamales, rice, biscuits, or just plain crackers, and top with any of the following garnishes: chopped fresh cilantro leaves, minced white onion, diced avocado, shredded cheddar or jack cheese, or sour cream.

Ingredients

3	tablespoons ancho chili powder or 3 medium pods (about 1/2 ounce), toasted and ground (see illustrations below)
3	tablespoons New Mexico chili powder or 3 medium pods (about 3/4 ounce), toasted and ground
2	tablespoons cumin seeds , toasted in a dry skillet over medium heat until fragrant, about 4 minutes, and ground
2	teaspoons dried oregano , preferably Mexican
7 1/2	cups water , divided
1	beef chuck roast (4-pounds), trimmed of excess fat and cut into 1-inch cubes
2	teaspoons table salt , plus extra for seasoning
8	ounces bacon (7 or 8 slices), cut into 1/4-inch pieces
1	medium onion , minced (about 1 cup)
5	medium cloves garlic , minced
4 - 5	small jalapeño chiles , cored, seeded, and minced
1	cup crushed tomatoes (canned), or plain tomato sauce
2	tablespoons lime juice from 1 medium lime
5	tablespoons masa harina or 3 tablespoons cornstarch
	Ground black pepper

Instructions

1. 1. Mix chili powders, cumin, and oregano in small bowl and stir in 1/2 cup water to form thick paste; set aside. Toss beef cubes with salt; set aside.
   
   

2. 2. Fry bacon in large, heavy soup kettle or Dutch oven over medium-low heat until fat renders and bacon crisps, about 10 minutes. Remove bacon with slotted spoon to paper towel-lined plate; pour all but 2 teaspoons fat from pot into small bowl; set aside. Increase heat to medium-high; sauté meat in four batches until well-browned on all sides, about 5 minutes per batch, adding additional 2 teaspoons bacon fat to pot as necessary. Reduce heat to medium, add 3 tablespoons bacon fat to now-empty pan. Add onion; sauté until softened, 5 to 6 minutes. Add garlic and jalapeño; sauté until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add chili paste; sauté until fragrant, 2 to 3 minutes. Add reserved bacon and browned beef, crushed tomatoes or tomato sauce, lime juice, and 7 cups water; bring to simmer. Continue to cook at a steady simmer until meat is tender and juices are dark, rich, and starting to thicken, about 2 hours.
   
   

3. 3. Mix masa harina with 2/3 cup water (or cornstarch with 3 tablespoons water) in a small bowl to form smooth paste. Increase heat to medium; stir in paste and simmer until thickened, 5 to 10 minutes. Adjust seasoning generously with salt and ground black pepper. Serve immediately, or preferably, cool slightly, cover, and refrigerate overnight or for up to 5 days. Reheat before serving.

Toasting and Preparing the Chiles

1. Dried chile pods toasted in a 350-degree oven for about 6 minutes become fragrant and puffed.

2. When cool enough to handle, remove stems and seeds from the pods, rip them into pieces, and process until powdery, 30 to 45 seconds.

Prime rib roast beef with jus

From Cook's Illustrated

Serve with Individual Yorkshire puddings.

Serves 10 to 12.

Ask the butcher to cut the meat off the ribs, but make sure to keep the ribs because the meat is tied back onto them for roasting. Letting the roast stand at room temperature for 2 hours before roasting helps it cook evenly. Plan on removing the roast from the refrigerator about 5 1/2 hours before serving.

Ingredients

1	first-cut beef rib roast (ribs 9 through 12, about 8 pounds), meat removed from bone, ribs reserved, patted dry
1 1/2	pounds oxtails
1	tablespoon tomato paste
3	medium onions , cut into eigths
3	tablespoons vegetable oil
	kosher salt (preferably) or table salt
2	tablespoons ground black pepper
1	cup red wine , medium-bodied, such as Côtes du Rhône
1 3/4	cups low-sodium beef broth
1 3/4	cups low-sodium chicken broth
2	sprigs fresh thyme

Instructions

1. 1. Remove roast and ribs from refrigerator and let stand at room temperature 2 hours. After an hour, adjust oven rack to lowest position and heat oven to 400 degrees. Rub oxtails with tomato paste and place in heavy-bottomed, burner-safe roasting pan. Toss onions with 1 tablespoon oil, then scatter onions in roasting pan. Roast until oxtails and onions are browned, about 45 minutes, flipping oxtails halfway through cooking time. Remove from oven and set roasting pan with oxtails aside; reduce oven temperature to 250 degrees.

2. 2. When roast has stood at room temperature 2 hours, heat heavy-bottomed 12-inch skillet over medium heat until hot, about 4 minutes. Meanwhile, rub ends and fat-side of roast with remaining 2 tablespoons oil, then sprinkle with 1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt (or 3/4 teaspoon table salt) and pepper. Place roast fat-side down in skillet and cook until well-browned, 12 to 15 minutes; using tongs, stand roast on end and cook until well-browned, about 4 minutes. Repeat with other end. Do not brown side where ribs were attached. Place roast browned-side up on cutting board and cool 10 minutes. Following illustration 1 below, tie browned roast to ribs. Set roast bone-side down in roasting pan (see illustration 2), pushing oxtails and onions to sides of pan. Roast 1 hour, then remove from oven and check internal temperature; center of roast should register about 70 degrees on instant-read thermometer. (If internal temperature is higher or lower, adjust total cooking time.) Return roast to oven, and prepare Yorkshire pudding batter now (if making), and cook 1 1/4 to 1 3/4 hours longer, until center of meat registers about 122 degrees for rare to medium-rare or about 130 degrees for medium-rare to medium (see illustration 3) . Transfer roast to cutting board and tent loosely with foil. Increase oven temperature to 450 degrees for Yorkshire pudding.

3. 3. While roast rests, spoon off fat from roasting pan, reserving 3 tablespoons for Yorkshire puddings; set roasting pan aside while preparing puddings for baking. While puddings bake, set roasting pan over 2 burners at high heat. Add wine to roasting pan; using wooden spoon, scrape up browned bits and boil until reduced by half, about 3 minutes. Add beef broth, chicken broth, and thyme. Cut twine on roast and remove meat from ribs; re-tent meat. Add ribs, meaty side down, to roasting pan and continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until liquid is reduced by two-thirds (to about 2 cups), 16 to 20 minutes. Add any accumulated beef juices from meat and cook to heat through, about 1 minute longer. Discard ribs and oxtails; strain jus through mesh strainer into gravy boat, pressing on onions to extract as much liquid as possible.

4. 4. Set meat browned-side up on board and cut into 3/8 -inch-thick slices; sprinkle lightly with salt. Serve immediately, passing jus separately.

Key Steps When Preparing Roast Beef

1. Position browned meat back on bones. Using four lengths of twine, tie meat back onto bones, exactly from where it was cut.

2. Place roast, bone-side down, (seared-side up) in center of roasting pan, pushing oxtails and onions to sides of pan.

3. To check temperature, insert thermometer through top of roast until you reach center.

Best old-fashioned burgers

From Cook's Illustrated

Makes 4 burgers. Published July 1, 2008. From Cook's Illustrated.

Sirloin steak tips are also labeled “flap meat” by some butchers. Flank steak can be used in its place. This recipe yields juicy medium to medium-well burgers. It’s important to use very soft buns. If doubling the recipe, process the meat in three batches in step 2. Because the cooked burgers do not hold well, fry four burgers and serve them immediately before frying more. Or, cook them in two pans. Extra patties can be frozen for up to 2 weeks. Stack the patties, separated by parchment, and wrap them in three layers of plastic wrap. Thaw burgers in a single layer on a baking sheet at room temperature for 30 minutes before cooking.

Ingredients

10	ounces sirloin steak tips , cut into 1-inch chunks (see note)
6	ounces beef short ribs (boneless), cut into 1-inch chunks
	Kosher salt and ground black pepper
1	tablespoon unsalted butter
4	hamburger buns , soft (see note)
1/2	teaspoon vegetable oil
4	slices American cheese
	Thinly sliced onion
1	recipe Classic Burger Sauce (see related Serve With recipe)

Instructions

1. 1. Place beef chunks on baking sheet in single layer, leaving 1/2 inch of space around each chunk. Freeze meat until very firm and starting to harden around edges but still pliable, 15 to 25 minutes.

2. 2. Place half of meat in food processor and pulse until meat is coarsely ground, 10 to 15 one-second pulses, stopping and redistributing meat around bowl as necessary to ensure beef is evenly ground. Transfer meat to baking sheet, overturning bowl and without directly touching meat. Repeat grinding with remaining meat. Spread meat over sheet and inspect carefully, discarding any long strands of gristle or large chunks of hard meat or fat.

3. 3. Gently separate ground meat into 4 equal mounds. Without picking meat up, with your fingers gently shape each mound into loose patty 1/2 inch thick and 4 inches in diameter, leaving edges and surface ragged. Season top of each patty with salt and pepper. Using spatula, flip patties and season other side. Refrigerate while toasting buns.

4. 4. Melt 1/2 tablespoon butter in heavy-bottomed 12-inch skillet over medium heat until foaming. Add bun tops, cut-side down, and toast until light golden brown, about 2 minutes. Repeat with remaining butter and bun bottoms. Set buns aside and wipe out skillet with paper towels.

5. 5. Return skillet to high heat; add oil and heat until just smoking. Using spatula, transfer burgers to skillet and cook without moving for 3 minutes. Using spatula, flip burgers over and cook for 1 minute. Top each patty with slice of cheese and continue to cook until cheese is melted, about 1 minute longer.

6. 6. Transfer patties to bun bottoms and top with onion. Spread 2 teaspoons of burger sauce on each bun top. Cover burgers and serve immediately.

Better Beef for a Better Burger Chuck is the usual choice for burgers. For the best flavor and tender juicy texture, we opted for two better cuts of beef: sirloin steak tips (right), which contribute big meaty taste, and well-marbled boneless short ribs (left), which lend the fat that keeps the burgers juicy. For best results, buy ribs with at least as much fat as the rib in the photo.

Keys to Loosely Packed Patties

1. FREEZE Chill meat in freezer, separating cubes by at least 1/2 inch, until firm but still pliable, 15 to 25 minutes. Pulse meat in food processor.

2. SPREAD AND DIVIDE Spread chopped meat over baking sheet and remove any large chunks or stringy connective tissue. Gently separate meat into 4 piles.

3. SHAPE Without lifting or compressing, gently form meat into thin patties with rough edges and textured surface.

Getting the Perfect Grind Underprocessed meat will lead to gristly bits in the finished burgers and patties that don’t hold together. Overprocessed meat becomes rubbery and dense as it cooks. Perfectly ground meat contains pieces that are fine enough to ensure tenderness but coarse enough that the patty will stay loose.

Charcoal-grilled stuffed flank steak

From Cook's Illustrated

Serves 4 to 6. Published July 1, 2009. From Cook's Illustrated.

Depending on the steak’s size, you may have between 8 and 12 pinwheels of stuffed meat at the end of step 2. Freezing the steak for 30 minutes will make butterflying easier. You will need both wooden skewers and twine for this recipe.

Ingredients

2	medium garlic cloves , minced or pressed through garlic press (about 2 teaspoons)
1	small shallot , minced (about 2 tablespoons)
2	tablespoons fresh parsley leaves , finely minced
1	teaspoon sage leaves , finely minced
2	tablespoons olive oil , plus extra for oiling grate
1	flank steak (2- to 2 1/2-pounds) (see note)
4	ounces thinly sliced prosciutto
4	ounces thinly sliced provolone
8 - 12	skewers soaked in water for 30 minutes
	Kosher salt and ground black pepper

Instructions

1. 1. Combine garlic, shallot, parsley, sage, and olive oil in small bowl. Following illustrations below, butterfly and pound flank steak into rough rectangle. With steak positioned so that grain runs parallel to edge of counter and opened side faces up, spread herb mixture evenly over surface of steak. Lay prosciutto evenly over steak, leaving 2-inch border along top edge. Cover prosciutto with even layer of cheese, leaving 2-inch border along top edge. Starting from bottom edge and rolling away from you, roll beef into tight log and place on cutting board seam-side down.

2. 2. Starting ½ inch from end of rolled steak, evenly space 8 to twelve 14-inch pieces of butcher’s twine at 1-inch intervals underneath steak. Tie middle string first; then working from outermost strings toward center, tightly tie roll and turn tied steak 90 degrees so seam is facing you. Skewer beef directly through outermost flap of steak near seam through each piece of string, allowing skewer to extend ½ inch on opposite side. Using chef’s knife, slice roll between pieces of twine into 1-inch-thick pinwheels. Season pinwheels lightly with kosher salt and black pepper.

3. 3. Light large chimney starter nearly full with charcoal (5 quarts, about 80 briquettes); allow to burn until coals are fully ignited and partially covered with thin layer of ash, about 20 minutes. Build modified two-level fire by arranging all coals over half of grill, leaving other half empty. Position cooking grate over coals, cover grill, and heat rack until hot, about 5 minutes; scrape grate clean with grill brush. Dip wad of paper towels in oil; holding wad with tongs, wipe cooking grate. Grill is ready when side with coals is hot (you can hold your hand 5 inches above grate for 2 to 3 seconds).

4. 4. Grill pinwheels directly over hot side of grill until well browned, 3 to 6 minutes. Using tongs, flip pinwheels; grill until second side is well browned, 3 to 5 minutes longer. Transfer pinwheels to cooler side of grill, cover, and continue to cook until center of pinwheels registers 125 degrees on instant-read thermometer, 1 to 4 minutes (slightly thinner pinwheels may not need time on cooler side of grill). Transfer pinwheels to large plate, tent loosely with foil, and let rest 5 minutes. Remove and discard skewers and twine and serve immediately.

Steak tips with mushroom-onion gravy

From Cook's Illustrated

Serves 4 to 6. Published September 1, 2009. From Cook's Illustrated.

Steak tips, also known as flap meat, are sold as whole steak, cubes, and strips. To ensure evenly sized chunks, we prefer to purchase whole steak tips and cut them ourselves. If you can only find cubes or strips, reduce the cooking time slightly to avoid overcooking any smaller or thinner pieces. Cremini mushrooms can be used in place of the white mushrooms. Our preferred brand of beef broth is Pacific. Serve over rice or egg noodles.

Ingredients

1	tablespoon soy sauce
1	teaspoon sugar
1 1/2	pounds sirloin steak tips , trimmed of excess fat and cut into 1 1/2-inch chunks (see note)
1/4	ounce dried porcini mushrooms , rinsed well
1 3/4	cups low-sodium beef broth (see note)
	Table salt and ground black pepper
2	tablespoons vegetable oil
1	pound white mushrooms , stems trimmed, caps wiped clean and cut into 1/4-inch slices (see note)
1	large onion , halved and sliced thin (about 1 1/2 cups)
1	medium garlic clove , minced or pressed through garlic press (about 1 teaspoon)
1/2	teaspoon minced fresh thyme leaves
4	teaspoons unbleached all-purpose flour
1	tablespoon chopped fresh parsley leaves

Instructions

1. 1. Combine soy sauce and sugar in medium bowl. Add beef, toss well, and marinate at least 30 minutes or up to 1 hour, tossing once.

2. 2. Meanwhile, cover porcini mushrooms with ¼ cup broth in small microwave-safe bowl; cover with plastic wrap, cut several steam vents in plastic with paring knife, and microwave on high power 30 seconds. Let stand until mushrooms soften, about 5 minutes. Lift mushrooms from liquid with fork and mince (you should have about 1½ tablespoons). Strain liquid through fine-mesh strainer lined with paper towel into medium bowl. Set mushrooms and liquid aside.

3. 3. Sprinkle meat with 1/2 teaspoon pepper. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat until smoking. Add meat and cook until well browned on all sides, 6 to 8 minutes. Transfer to large plate and set aside.

4. 4. Return skillet to medium-high heat and add remaining tablespoon oil, white mushrooms, minced porcinis, and ¼ teaspoon salt; cook, stirring frequently, until all liquid has evaporated and mushrooms start to brown, 7 to 9 minutes. Scrape pan to loosen fond. Add onion and ¼ teaspoon salt; continue to cook, stirring frequently, until onion begins to brown and dark bits form on pan bottom, 6 to 8 minutes longer. Add garlic, thyme, and flour; cook, stirring constantly, until vegetables are coated with flour, about 1 minute. Stir in remaining 1½ cups beef broth and porcini soaking liquid, scraping bottom of pan with wooden spoon to loosen browned bits, and bring to boil.

5. 5. Nestle steak pieces into mushroom and onion mixture and add any accumulated juices to skillet. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer until steak registers 130 degrees on instant-read thermometer, 3 to 5 minutes, turning beef over several times. Season with salt and pepper, sprinkle with parsley, and serve.

The Right Steak Tips
Steak tips (also called “flap meat” or “sirloin tips”) have a big beefy flavor and tender texture (when sliced properly against the grain) that make this cut one of our favorite inexpensive steaks. But since “steak tips” is a catch-all phrase for almost any type of beef cut into strips, it can be tricky to identify. The easiest way is to look at the grain: Flap meat has a large-grained texture that is distinct from other beef cuts, which tend to have a finer, tighter grain. And be sure to buy a whole steak, not strips or cubes.

Beef burgundy

From Cook's Illustrated

Serves 6. Published January 1, 2001.

If you cannot find salt pork, thick-cut bacon can be substituted. Cut it crosswise into 1/4-inch pieces and treat it just as you would salt pork, but note that you will have no rind to include in the vegetable and herb bouquet. To make this dish a day or two in advance, see “Advance Preparation of Beef Burgundy,” below. Boiled potatoes are the traditional accompaniment, but mashed potatoes or buttered noodles are nice as well.

Ingredients

Beef Braise
6	ounces salt pork , trimmed of rind (see Step 1 below), rind reserved, and salt pork cut into 1/4 inch by 1/4 inch by 1-inch pieces
10	sprigs fresh parsley leaves , torn into quarters
6	sprigs fresh thyme
2	medium onions , chopped coarse
2	medium carrots , chopped coarse
1	medium head garlic , cloves separated and crushed but unpeeled
2	bay leaves , crumbled
1/2	teaspoon whole black peppercorns
1/2	ounce dried porcini mushrooms , rinsed (optional)
4 - 4 1/4	pounds beef chuck roast , prepared as described in Steps 2, 3, and 4 below
	Table salt and ground black pepper
4	tablespoons unsalted butter , cut into 4 pieces
1/3	cup unbleached all-purpose flour
1 3/4	cups canned low-sodium chicken broth
1	bottle red burgundy wine (750 ml) or Pinot Noir
1	teaspoon tomato paste
Onion and Mushroom Garnish
36	frozen pearl onions (about 7 ounces)
1	tablespoon unsalted butter
1	tablespoon granulated sugar
1/2	teaspoon table salt
10	ounces white mushrooms , whole if small, halved if medium, quartered if large
2	tablespoons brandy
3	tablespoons minced fresh parsley leaves

Instructions

1. 1. Bring salt pork, reserved salt pork rind, and 3 cups water to boil in medium saucepan over high heat. Boil 2 minutes, then drain well.

2. 2. Cut two 22-inch lengths cheesecloth. Following "Making The Vegetable and Herb Bouquet," below, wrap parsley, thyme, onions, carrots, garlic, bay leaves, peppercorns, porcini mushrooms, and blanched salt pork rind in cheesecloth and set in 8-quart nonreactive Dutch oven. Adjust oven rack to lower-middle position and heat oven to 300 degrees.

3. 3. Set 12-inch skillet with salt pork over medium heat; sauté until lightly brown and crisp, about 12 minutes. Remove with slotted spoon to Dutch oven; pour off all but 2 teaspoons fat and reserve. Season beef with salt and pepper. Increase heat to high and brown half of beef in single layer, turning once or twice, until deep brown, about 7 minutes; transfer browned beef to Dutch oven. Pour 1/2 cup water into skillet and scrape pan with wooden spoon to loosen browned bits; when pan bottom is clean, pour liquid into Dutch oven.

4. 4. Return skillet to high heat and add 2 teaspoons reserved pork fat; swirl to coat pan bottom. When fat begins to smoke, brown remaining beef in single layer, turning once or twice, until deep brown, about 7 minutes; transfer browned beef to Dutch oven. Pour 1/2 cup water into skillet and scrape pan with wooden spoon to loosen browned bits; when pan bottom is clean, pour liquid into Dutch oven.

5. 5. Set now-empty skillet over medium heat; add butter. When foaming subsides, whisk in flour until evenly moistened and pasty. Cook, whisking constantly, until mixture has toasty aroma and resembles light-colored peanut butter, about 5 minutes. Gradually whisk in chicken broth and 1 1/2 cups water; increase heat to medium-high and bring to simmer, stirring frequently, until thickened. Pour mixture into Dutch oven. Add 3 cups wine, tomato paste, and salt and pepper to taste to Dutch oven and stir to combine. Set Dutch oven over high heat and bring to boil. Cover and set pot in oven; cook until meat is tender, 2 1/2 to 3 hours.

6. 6. Remove Dutch oven from oven and, using tongs, transfer vegetable and herb bouquet to strainer set over pot. Press out liquid into pot and discard bouquet. With slotted spoon, remove beef to medium bowl; set aside. Allow braising liquid to settle about 15 minutes, then, with wide shallow spoon, skim fat off surface and discard.

7. 7. Bring liquid in Dutch oven to boil over medium-high heat. Simmer briskly, stirring occasionally to ensure that bottom is not burning, until sauce is reduced to about 3 cups and thickened to the consistency of heavy cream, 15 to 25 minutes.

8. 8. While sauce is reducing, bring pearl onions, butter, sugar, 1/4 teaspoon salt, and 1/2 cup water to boil in medium skillet over high heat; cover and reduce heat to medium-low and simmer, shaking pan occasionally, until onions are tender, about 5 minutes. Uncover, increase heat to high, and simmer until all liquid evaporates, about 3 minutes. Add mushrooms and 1/4 teaspoon salt; cook, stirring occasionally, until liquid released by mushrooms evaporates and vegetables are browned and glazed, about 5 minutes. Transfer vegetables to large plate and set aside. Add 1/4 cup water to skillet and stir with wooden spoon to loosen browned bits. When pan bottom and sides are clean, add liquid to reducing sauce.

9. 9. When sauce has reduced to about 3 cups and thickened to the consistency of heavy cream, reduce heat to medium-low; stir in beef, mushrooms and onions (and any accumulated juices), remaining wine from bottle, and brandy into Dutch oven. Cover pot and cook until just heated through, 5 to 8 minutes. Adjust seasonings with salt and pepper and serve, sprinkling individual servings with minced parsley.

10. Advanced Preparation

11. Follow recipe for beef Burgundy through step 5. Using tongs, transfer vegetable and herb bouquet to mesh strainer set over Dutch oven. Press out liquid back into pot and discard bouquet. Let beef cool to room temperature in braising liquid in dutch oven, then cover and refrigerate 1 to 2 days.

12. With slotted spoon, skim congealed fat off top and discard. Set pot over medium-high heat and bring to simmer; with slotted spoon remove beef to medium bowl and set aside. Simmer sauce briskly, stirring occasionally to ensure that bottom is not burning, until reduced to about 3 cups and thickened to the consistency of heavy cream.

13. Continue with recipe from step 8.

The American burger

From Washingtonian.com

How To Build a Better Burger, part 10

The American Burger

By Bryan Voltaggio of Charlie Palmer Steak

1/8 teaspoon ground fennel seed, toasted
1/8 teaspoon ground coriander, toasted
1/3 teaspoon cracked black pepper
1/4 pound bleu cheese (Voltaggio likes Big Woods brand)
11/2 tablespoons canola oil
1 cup finely diced Vidalia onion
1 teaspoon minced garlic
3 teaspoons freshly squeezed lime juice
1 tablespoon finely chopped parsley
1 head Bibb lettuce
4 purple heirloom tomatoes, thickly sliced
Salt and pepper to taste
4 buns

Preheat the grill to 500 degrees.

In a bowl, combine the beef with the toasted spices and cracked pepper. Shape the meat into 1/2-pound patties.

Split each patty in two and place 2 ounces of bleu cheese into the center of each. Press the patty back together so it is whole again. Refrigerate until very cold.

Make an onion relish: In a saucepot set over medium heat, warm the canola oil and slowly sweat the onion for 20 minutes. Add the garlic and cook until soft. Stir in the lime juice and season with salt and pepper. Remove from the heat and stir in the parsley. Adjust seasoning and set aside.

Grill the burgers to desired temperature. Split the buns and toast lightly on the grill. Serve burgers with lettuce, tomato, and onion relish.

The Japanese burger

From Washingtonian.com

How To Build a Better Burger, part 8

The Japanese Burger

By Kaz Okochi of Kaz Sushi Bistro

1/4 pound tofu
1/2 pound ground beef
1/2 pound ground pork
1/4 cup thinly sliced shiitake mushrooms
1/4 cup chopped scallions
2 tablespoons miso paste
1 egg 1 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon pepper
1/4 teaspoon nutmeg
2 tablespoons soy sauce
1/4 cup mirin
1/4 teaspoon finely chopped garlic
1/4 teaspoon grated ginger
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
8 iceberg-lettuce leaves
1/4 cup Japanese mayonnaise
4 teaspoons grated horseradish
4 sesame buns

In a shallow pan, set the tofu between 2 paper towels. Weight it down with a can or bottle for 30 minutes. Let the water drain, chop the tofu, and set aside.

In a bowl, combine the beef, pork, tofu, shiitakes, scallions, miso, egg, salt, pepper, and nutmeg and mix well. Divide the mixture into 4 patties.

In another bowl, combine the soy sauce, mirin, garlic, and ginger. Set aside.

Set a pan over medium-high heat and pour in 1 tablespoon of vegetable oil. Cook each burger for 1 to 2 minutes, until brown on each side, then reduce the heat to low. Cover the pan with foil and cook 4 minutes more. Puncture patty to test if it’s done; its juices should be clear. Remove the burgers from the pan and drain the oil. Return the patties to the pan, raise the heat to medium and add the soy-sauce mixture. Keep the pan moving to prevent the sauce from burning and flip the burgers while the sauce thickens. The burgers are done when they have a thick, shiny coating of sauce. Serve on a toasted bun with lettuce, mayonnaise, and horseradish.

The Greek burger

From Washingtonian.com

How To Build a Better Burger, part 7

The Greek Burger

By Natalina Koropoulos of Mourayo

1 pound ground lamb
1 pound ground beef
1 tablespoon chopped shallots
4 teaspoons chopped fresh mint
1/3 of a cucumber, grated with the skin on, then drained in a cheesecloth
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1 teaspoon chopped fresh dill
1 cup Greek yogurt
2 tomatoes, sliced
1/3 red onion, sliced
1 teaspoon fresh oregano
1 teaspoon olive oil
Salt and pepper to taste
1 cup feta cheese, crumbled
4 rounds pita bread, brushed with olive oil, sprinkled with oregano, and toasted or grilled

In a bowl, mix the lamb, beef, shallots, and mint until just combined. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Divide into 4 patties.

Preheat the grill to a medium-high flame and cook the burgers to desired temperature.

Make a tzatziki by combining the cucumber, garlic, dill, and yogurt.

In a separate bowl, toss the tomato, red onion, oregano, and olive oil. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Spread each pita round with tzatziki and top with a burger, the tomato-onion mixture, and feta.

The Vietnamese burger

From Washingtonian.com

How To Build a Better Burger, part 3

The Vietnamese Burger

By Chi Ha of Minh’s Restaurant

For the patties:

1 pound ground beef
1 teaspoon fish sauce
1 teaspoon oyster sauce (Ha recommends Lee Kum Kee brand)
1 teaspoon white wine
2 teaspoons sesame oil
1/2 teaspoon finely crushed garlic
1/2 onion, finely chopped
1 teaspoon tapioca flour
1/2 teaspoon five-spice powder
1 teaspoon sugar
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon black pepper

For toppings:

1 onion, sliced
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
1 carrot, shredded into thin ribbons
1/2 cucumber, sliced
1 tomato, sliced
4 buns

Fold into the ground beef all other patty ingredients and mix until well incorporated. Shape the beef mixture into 4 patties.

Grill the patties over a low flame or sautee in a nonstick pan set over medium heat. Remove the patties and raise the heat to high. Caramelize the onion slices in the vegetable oil.

Serve on a bun with carrot ribbons, cucumber, tomato, and caramelized onion.