Tuscan-style garlic-rosemary roast pork loin with jus

From Cook's Illustrated

Serves 6 to 8. Published September 1, 2002.

The roasting time is determined in part by the shape of the roast; a long, thin roast will cook faster than a roast with a large circumference. Though not traditionally served, the ribs are rich with flavor. If you'd like to serve them or enjoy them for yourself, increase the oven temperature to 375 degrees, untie the roast and remove the loin as directed, then scrape off the excess garlic-rosemary paste from the ribs, set them on a rimmed baking sheet, and return them to the oven for about 20 minutes, until they are brown and crisp. Slice in between bones and serve.

Ingredients

Roast
2	cups kosher salt or 1 cup table salt
2 1/3	cups packed dark brown sugar (16 ounces)
10	large cloves garlic , lightly crushed and peeled
5	sprigs fresh rosemary (each about 6 inches long)
1	bone-in, center-cut, 4-pound pork rib roast , prepared according to first two illustrations below
Garlic-Rosemary Paste
8 - 10	cloves garlic , pressed through garlic press or minced to paste (1 1/2 tablespoons)
1 1/2	tablespoons minced fresh rosemary
1	teaspoon ground black pepper
1	tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
1/8	teaspoon kosher salt or pinch table salt
Jus
1	cup dry white wine
1	teaspoon ground black pepper
1	medium shallot , minced (about 3 tablespoons)
1 1/2	teaspoons minced fresh rosemary
1 3/4	cups low-sodium chicken broth
2	tablespoons unsalted butter , cut into 4 pieces and softened

Instructions

1. 1. TO BRINE THE ROAST: Dissolve salt and brown sugar in 1 1/2 quarts hot tap water in large stockpot or clean bucket. Stir in garlic and rosemary; add 2 1/2 quarts cold water and submerge meat and bones in brine. Refrigerate until fully seasoned, about 3 hours. Rinse meat and ribs under cold water and dry thoroughly with paper towels.

2. 2. FOR THE GARLIC-ROSEMARY RUB: While roast brines, mix together garlic, rosemary, pepper, olive oil, and salt in small bowl to form paste; set aside.

3. 3. TO PREPARE THE ROAST: When roast is done brining, adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 325 degrees. Heat heavy-bottomed 12-inch nonreactive skillet over medium heat until hot, about 4 minutes. Place roast fat-side down in skillet and cook until well-browned, about 8 minutes. Transfer roast browned-side up to cutting board and set aside to cool. Pour off fat from skillet and add wine; increase heat to high and bring to boil, scraping skillet with wooden spoon until browned bits are loosened, about 1 minute. Set skillet with wine aside.

4. 4. Following "Adding the Paste" illustrations below, make lengthwise incision in pork loin, rub with one-third of garlic-rosemary paste, rub remaining paste on cut side of ribs, and tie meat back to ribs. Sprinkle browned side of roast with 1 teaspoon pepper and set roast rib-side down in flameproof roasting pan. Pour reserved wine and browned bits from skillet in roasting pan. Roast, basting loin with pan drippings every 20 minutes, until center of loin registers about 135 degrees on instant-read thermometer, 65 to 80 minutes. (If wine evaporates, add about 1/2 cup water to roasting pan to prevent scorching.) Transfer roast to carving board and tent loosely with foil; let stand until center of loin registers about 145 degrees on instant-read thermometer, about 15 minutes.

5. 5. While roast rests, spoon off most of fat from roasting pan and place over 2 burners at high heat. Add shallot and rosemary; using wooden spoon, scrape up browned bits and boil liquid until reduced by half and shallot has softened, about 2 minutes. Add chicken broth and continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until reduced by half, about 8 minutes. Add any accumulated pork juices and cook 1 minute longer. Off heat, whisk in butter; strain jus into gravy boat.

6. 6. Cut twine on roast and remove meat from bones. Set meat browned-side up on board and cut into 1/4-inch-thick slices. Serve immediately, passing jus separately.

Variation: Tuscan-style garlic-rosemary roast pork loin with fennel
2 medium bulbs fennel
1 tablespoon olive oil
Table salt and ground black pepper

2. PREPARE THE FENNEL: Trim fennel bulbs of stalks and fronds; finely chop 2 teaspoons fronds. Cut each bulb lengthwise into eighths. Toss fennel with 1 tablespoon olive oil in medium bowl and season generously with salt and pepper.
3. FOR THE GARLIC-ROSEMARY RUB: While roast brines, mix together garlic, rosemary, fennel seeds, chopped fennel fronds, pepper, olive oil, and salt in small bowl to form paste; set aside.

Variation: Tuscan-style garlic-rosemary roast pork loin with roasted potatoes

3/4	cup dry white wine
2	pounds medium red potatoes , 2 1/2-inch diameter, (about 14 potatoes total), quartered
2	tablespoons olive oil
	Table salt and ground black pepper

5. When pork has roasted 15 minutes, toss potatoes with olive oil in medium bowl and season generously with salt and pepper. Baste pork. After pork has roasted 30 minutes, add potatoes to roasting pan; stir to coat potatoes with pan juices. Continue to roast pork (basting every 20 minutes) until center of loin registers about 135 degrees on instant-read thermometer, 65 to 80 minutes. (If wine evaporates, add about 1/2 cup water to roasting pan to prevent scorching.) Transfer roast to carving board and tent loosely with foil; let stand until center of loin registers about 145 degrees on instant-read thermometer, about 15 minutes. Turn potato pieces with wide metal spatula and spread them in even layer. Increase oven temperature to 400 degrees and return potatoes to oven; continue to roast until tender and browned, 5 to 15 minutes longer.

Preparing the Roast and Adding the Paste

Position roast so bones are perpendicular to cutting board. Starting from far end and working toward you make series of small, easy strokes with boning knife.

Gradually cut along curved rib bones down to backbone until meat is free of bones.

Adding the Paste #1: With fat side of roast down, slice through center of entire length of meat, stopping 1 inch shy of edge. Spread meat flat.

Adding the Paste #2: Rub one-third of rosemary mixture in even layer on one side of cut, leaving 1/2 inch on each end bare.

Adding the Paste #3: Spread remaining rosemary mixture evenly along bones from where meat was cut, leaving 1/2 inch on each end bare.

Adding the Paste #4: Fold meat back together and tie meat on bones exactly from where it was cut with 7 individual lengths of twine.

Roast chicken with dijon mustard-thyme sauce

From Cook's Illustrated

Jean-Louis Gerin of Restaurant Jean-Louis in Greenwich, Connecticut, serves this sauce with butterflied baby chicken (poussin). The immersion blender transforms all the wonderful tasting (but not-so-wonderful looking) browned mustard bits and pieces into flecks, giving the sauce a smooth, more refined look.

Ingredients

1/2	cup Dijon mustard
1	tablespoon fresh thyme , stems removed
4	chicken breast halves
2	tablespoons butter
1 1/2	cups chicken stock
1/4	cup heavy cream

Instructions

1. 1. Mix Dijon mustard and thyme; coat chicken pieces with this marinade. Cover and refrigerate for 24 hours.

2. 2. Bring chicken to room temperature and heat oven to 350°. Melt 1 tablespoon butter in a skillet. Add 2 breasts and cook, skin side down, over medium-high heat, until well browned, about 6 minutes. Transfer breasts to a roasting pan. Repeat cooking process with remaining chicken, adding another tablespoon butter, if necessary. Transfer chicken to the oven; roast until juices run clear when pierced with a fork, 20 to 25 minutes.

3. 3. Meanwhile, add chicken stock to skillet; bring to boil, scraping up any brown bits that have stuck to the pan; simmer until stock reduces to 3/4 cup, about 10 minutes. Add cream; return to simmer for 1 minute. Pour sauce into an appropriate container. Submerge an immersion blender and blend until sauce is smooth and frothy. Place a piece of chicken on each of 4 dinner plates. Spoon a portion of sauce over each piece of chicken and serve immediately.

Braised beef brisket, Oaxacan style

From Cook's Illustrated

Serves 8 - 10. Published March 1, 1995.

It is important to have a good quality, instant-read thermometer with a scale of 0 to 220 degrees. An accurate oven thermometer is useful as well. Basting with the braising liquid produces a rich, flavorful glaze. Warm tortillas and salsa make nice accompaniments.

Ingredients

1	tablespoon black peppercorns
2	teaspoons cumin seed
1	teaspoon coriander seeds
1	tablespoon chili powder
1	beef brisket (about 5 pounds), surface fat retained
3	tablespoons vegetable oil
3-5	cups low-sodium chicken broth
1	can diced tomatoes (28 ounces)
2	ounces dried chile peppers (preferably Pasilla), seeded
	kosher salt
2	teaspoons dried thyme
2	teaspoons dried oregano
3	medium onions , quartered
1	head garlic , halved crosswise
	fresh parsley leaves , for garnish

Instructions

1. 1. Heat oven to 500 degrees. Crush spices or grind them coarsely; press them into brisket and set aside

2. 2. Using two burners if necessary, heat oil in large, heavy roasting pan long and wide enough to hold brisket and at least 2 inches deep. Add brisket; cook over medium-high heat, turning once with tongs, until brown on both sides, about 10 minutes. Remove brisket and set aside. Add 1 cup broth, tomatoes and chiles; bring to boil, scraping bottom of pan with wooden spoon to loosen brown bits; reduce by half. Remove pan from heat. Season brisket lightly with thyme, oregano and salt, and return to roasting pan. Scatter onions and garlic around brisket.

3. 3. Put roasting pan in oven and cook, stirring vegetables occasionally to avoid burning, until thickest part of brisket reaches an internal temperature of around 130 degrees, about 20 minutes.

4. 4. Remove pan from oven; reduce oven temperature to 250 degrees. Do not return brisket to oven until temperature drops to 250 degrees. Add enough chicken broth to pan so that liquid comes about halfway up side of meat (2 to 4 more cups), baste brisket, and return to oven. Braise brisket, basting and turning every 1/2 hour or so, until meat just gives when pierced with meat thermometer and brisket’s internal temperature registers around 175 degrees, 1 1/2 to 2 1/2 hours.

5. 5. Remove brisket from braising liquid and wrap in foil. Strain braising liquid into large mixing bowl. Reserve vegetables, squeezing garlic cloves from heads. Transfer braising liquid to tall, narrow container, and let stand until fat rises. Skim and discard fat. Puree vegetables, including garlic, with 1/2 cup braising liquid in food processor or blender. Add pureed vegetables and braising liquid to a sauté pan and simmer until reduced to thin sauce consistency.

6. 6. Meanwhile, cut brisket across the grain into thin slices (about 1/8-inch thick). Arrange slices of meat on warm plates; generously ladle sauce over meat. Garnish with parsley, and serve immediately.

Prime rib roast beef with jus

From Cook's Illustrated

Serve with Individual Yorkshire puddings.

Serves 10 to 12.

Ask the butcher to cut the meat off the ribs, but make sure to keep the ribs because the meat is tied back onto them for roasting. Letting the roast stand at room temperature for 2 hours before roasting helps it cook evenly. Plan on removing the roast from the refrigerator about 5 1/2 hours before serving.

Ingredients

1	first-cut beef rib roast (ribs 9 through 12, about 8 pounds), meat removed from bone, ribs reserved, patted dry
1 1/2	pounds oxtails
1	tablespoon tomato paste
3	medium onions , cut into eigths
3	tablespoons vegetable oil
	kosher salt (preferably) or table salt
2	tablespoons ground black pepper
1	cup red wine , medium-bodied, such as Côtes du Rhône
1 3/4	cups low-sodium beef broth
1 3/4	cups low-sodium chicken broth
2	sprigs fresh thyme

Instructions

1. 1. Remove roast and ribs from refrigerator and let stand at room temperature 2 hours. After an hour, adjust oven rack to lowest position and heat oven to 400 degrees. Rub oxtails with tomato paste and place in heavy-bottomed, burner-safe roasting pan. Toss onions with 1 tablespoon oil, then scatter onions in roasting pan. Roast until oxtails and onions are browned, about 45 minutes, flipping oxtails halfway through cooking time. Remove from oven and set roasting pan with oxtails aside; reduce oven temperature to 250 degrees.

2. 2. When roast has stood at room temperature 2 hours, heat heavy-bottomed 12-inch skillet over medium heat until hot, about 4 minutes. Meanwhile, rub ends and fat-side of roast with remaining 2 tablespoons oil, then sprinkle with 1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt (or 3/4 teaspoon table salt) and pepper. Place roast fat-side down in skillet and cook until well-browned, 12 to 15 minutes; using tongs, stand roast on end and cook until well-browned, about 4 minutes. Repeat with other end. Do not brown side where ribs were attached. Place roast browned-side up on cutting board and cool 10 minutes. Following illustration 1 below, tie browned roast to ribs. Set roast bone-side down in roasting pan (see illustration 2), pushing oxtails and onions to sides of pan. Roast 1 hour, then remove from oven and check internal temperature; center of roast should register about 70 degrees on instant-read thermometer. (If internal temperature is higher or lower, adjust total cooking time.) Return roast to oven, and prepare Yorkshire pudding batter now (if making), and cook 1 1/4 to 1 3/4 hours longer, until center of meat registers about 122 degrees for rare to medium-rare or about 130 degrees for medium-rare to medium (see illustration 3) . Transfer roast to cutting board and tent loosely with foil. Increase oven temperature to 450 degrees for Yorkshire pudding.

3. 3. While roast rests, spoon off fat from roasting pan, reserving 3 tablespoons for Yorkshire puddings; set roasting pan aside while preparing puddings for baking. While puddings bake, set roasting pan over 2 burners at high heat. Add wine to roasting pan; using wooden spoon, scrape up browned bits and boil until reduced by half, about 3 minutes. Add beef broth, chicken broth, and thyme. Cut twine on roast and remove meat from ribs; re-tent meat. Add ribs, meaty side down, to roasting pan and continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until liquid is reduced by two-thirds (to about 2 cups), 16 to 20 minutes. Add any accumulated beef juices from meat and cook to heat through, about 1 minute longer. Discard ribs and oxtails; strain jus through mesh strainer into gravy boat, pressing on onions to extract as much liquid as possible.

4. 4. Set meat browned-side up on board and cut into 3/8 -inch-thick slices; sprinkle lightly with salt. Serve immediately, passing jus separately.

Key Steps When Preparing Roast Beef

1. Position browned meat back on bones. Using four lengths of twine, tie meat back onto bones, exactly from where it was cut.

2. Place roast, bone-side down, (seared-side up) in center of roasting pan, pushing oxtails and onions to sides of pan.

3. To check temperature, insert thermometer through top of roast until you reach center.

Roast fresh ham

From Cook's Illustrated

Serves 8 to 10.

If you don't have room in your refrigerator, you can brine the ham in a large insulated cooler or a small plastic garbage can; add five or six freezer packs to the brine to keep it well cooled.

Ingredients

Roast
1	fresh half ham bone-in with skin, 6 to 8 pounds, preferably shank end, rinsed
Brine
4	cups kosher salt or 2 cups table salt
3	cups packed brown sugar (dark or light)
2	heads garlic , cloves separated, lightly crushed and peeled
10	bay leaves
1/2	cup whole black peppercorns , crushed
Garlic and Herb Rub
1	cup fresh sage leaves from 1 large bunch, packed lightly
1/2	cup fresh parsley leaves from 1 bunch
8	medium cloves garlic , peeled
1	tablespoon kosher salt or 1 1/2 teaspoons table salt
1/2	tablespoon ground black pepper
1/4	cup olive oil
Glaze
1	glaze (see related recipes)

Instructions

1. 1. Following illustration below, carefully slice through skin and fat with serrated knife, making 1-inch diamond pattern. Be careful not to cut into meat.

2. 2. In large (about 16-quart) bucket or stockpot, dissolve salt and brown sugar in 1 gallon hot tap water. Add garlic, bay leaves, black pepper, and 1 gallon cold water. Submerge ham in brine and refrigerate 8 to 24 hours.

3. 3. Set large disposable roasting pan on baking sheet for extra support; place flat wire rack in roasting pan. Remove ham from brine; rinse under cold water and dry thoroughly with paper towels. Place ham, wide cut-side down, on rack. (If using sirloin end, place ham skin-side up.) Let ham stand, uncovered, at room temperature 1 hour.

4. 4. Meanwhile, adjust oven rack to lowest position and heat oven to 500 degrees. In workbowl of food processor fitted with steel blade, process sage, parsley, garlic, salt, pepper, and oil until mixture forms smooth paste, about 30 seconds. Rub all sides of ham with paste.

5. 5. Roast ham at 500 degrees for 20 minutes. Reduce oven temperature to 350 degrees and continue to roast, brushing ham with glaze every 45 minutes, until center of ham registers 145 to 150 degrees on instant-read thermometer (see illustration below for thermometer placement), about 2 1/2 hours longer. Tent ham loosely with foil and let stand until center of ham registers 155 to 160 degrees on thermometer, 30 to 40 minutes. Carve, following instructions below, and serve.

Beef burgundy

From Cook's Illustrated

Serves 6. Published January 1, 2001.

If you cannot find salt pork, thick-cut bacon can be substituted. Cut it crosswise into 1/4-inch pieces and treat it just as you would salt pork, but note that you will have no rind to include in the vegetable and herb bouquet. To make this dish a day or two in advance, see “Advance Preparation of Beef Burgundy,” below. Boiled potatoes are the traditional accompaniment, but mashed potatoes or buttered noodles are nice as well.

Ingredients

Beef Braise
6	ounces salt pork , trimmed of rind (see Step 1 below), rind reserved, and salt pork cut into 1/4 inch by 1/4 inch by 1-inch pieces
10	sprigs fresh parsley leaves , torn into quarters
6	sprigs fresh thyme
2	medium onions , chopped coarse
2	medium carrots , chopped coarse
1	medium head garlic , cloves separated and crushed but unpeeled
2	bay leaves , crumbled
1/2	teaspoon whole black peppercorns
1/2	ounce dried porcini mushrooms , rinsed (optional)
4 - 4 1/4	pounds beef chuck roast , prepared as described in Steps 2, 3, and 4 below
	Table salt and ground black pepper
4	tablespoons unsalted butter , cut into 4 pieces
1/3	cup unbleached all-purpose flour
1 3/4	cups canned low-sodium chicken broth
1	bottle red burgundy wine (750 ml) or Pinot Noir
1	teaspoon tomato paste
Onion and Mushroom Garnish
36	frozen pearl onions (about 7 ounces)
1	tablespoon unsalted butter
1	tablespoon granulated sugar
1/2	teaspoon table salt
10	ounces white mushrooms , whole if small, halved if medium, quartered if large
2	tablespoons brandy
3	tablespoons minced fresh parsley leaves

Instructions

1. 1. Bring salt pork, reserved salt pork rind, and 3 cups water to boil in medium saucepan over high heat. Boil 2 minutes, then drain well.

2. 2. Cut two 22-inch lengths cheesecloth. Following "Making The Vegetable and Herb Bouquet," below, wrap parsley, thyme, onions, carrots, garlic, bay leaves, peppercorns, porcini mushrooms, and blanched salt pork rind in cheesecloth and set in 8-quart nonreactive Dutch oven. Adjust oven rack to lower-middle position and heat oven to 300 degrees.

3. 3. Set 12-inch skillet with salt pork over medium heat; sauté until lightly brown and crisp, about 12 minutes. Remove with slotted spoon to Dutch oven; pour off all but 2 teaspoons fat and reserve. Season beef with salt and pepper. Increase heat to high and brown half of beef in single layer, turning once or twice, until deep brown, about 7 minutes; transfer browned beef to Dutch oven. Pour 1/2 cup water into skillet and scrape pan with wooden spoon to loosen browned bits; when pan bottom is clean, pour liquid into Dutch oven.

4. 4. Return skillet to high heat and add 2 teaspoons reserved pork fat; swirl to coat pan bottom. When fat begins to smoke, brown remaining beef in single layer, turning once or twice, until deep brown, about 7 minutes; transfer browned beef to Dutch oven. Pour 1/2 cup water into skillet and scrape pan with wooden spoon to loosen browned bits; when pan bottom is clean, pour liquid into Dutch oven.

5. 5. Set now-empty skillet over medium heat; add butter. When foaming subsides, whisk in flour until evenly moistened and pasty. Cook, whisking constantly, until mixture has toasty aroma and resembles light-colored peanut butter, about 5 minutes. Gradually whisk in chicken broth and 1 1/2 cups water; increase heat to medium-high and bring to simmer, stirring frequently, until thickened. Pour mixture into Dutch oven. Add 3 cups wine, tomato paste, and salt and pepper to taste to Dutch oven and stir to combine. Set Dutch oven over high heat and bring to boil. Cover and set pot in oven; cook until meat is tender, 2 1/2 to 3 hours.

6. 6. Remove Dutch oven from oven and, using tongs, transfer vegetable and herb bouquet to strainer set over pot. Press out liquid into pot and discard bouquet. With slotted spoon, remove beef to medium bowl; set aside. Allow braising liquid to settle about 15 minutes, then, with wide shallow spoon, skim fat off surface and discard.

7. 7. Bring liquid in Dutch oven to boil over medium-high heat. Simmer briskly, stirring occasionally to ensure that bottom is not burning, until sauce is reduced to about 3 cups and thickened to the consistency of heavy cream, 15 to 25 minutes.

8. 8. While sauce is reducing, bring pearl onions, butter, sugar, 1/4 teaspoon salt, and 1/2 cup water to boil in medium skillet over high heat; cover and reduce heat to medium-low and simmer, shaking pan occasionally, until onions are tender, about 5 minutes. Uncover, increase heat to high, and simmer until all liquid evaporates, about 3 minutes. Add mushrooms and 1/4 teaspoon salt; cook, stirring occasionally, until liquid released by mushrooms evaporates and vegetables are browned and glazed, about 5 minutes. Transfer vegetables to large plate and set aside. Add 1/4 cup water to skillet and stir with wooden spoon to loosen browned bits. When pan bottom and sides are clean, add liquid to reducing sauce.

9. 9. When sauce has reduced to about 3 cups and thickened to the consistency of heavy cream, reduce heat to medium-low; stir in beef, mushrooms and onions (and any accumulated juices), remaining wine from bottle, and brandy into Dutch oven. Cover pot and cook until just heated through, 5 to 8 minutes. Adjust seasonings with salt and pepper and serve, sprinkling individual servings with minced parsley.

10. Advanced Preparation

11. Follow recipe for beef Burgundy through step 5. Using tongs, transfer vegetable and herb bouquet to mesh strainer set over Dutch oven. Press out liquid back into pot and discard bouquet. Let beef cool to room temperature in braising liquid in dutch oven, then cover and refrigerate 1 to 2 days.

12. With slotted spoon, skim congealed fat off top and discard. Set pot over medium-high heat and bring to simmer; with slotted spoon remove beef to medium bowl and set aside. Simmer sauce briskly, stirring occasionally to ensure that bottom is not burning, until reduced to about 3 cups and thickened to the consistency of heavy cream.

13. Continue with recipe from step 8.