Pasta with tomato and almond pesto (pesto alla trapanese)

From Cook's Illustrated

Serves 4 to 6. Published July 1, 2009. From Cook's Illustrated.

A half teaspoon of red wine vinegar and ¼ teaspoon of red pepper flakes can be substituted for the pepperoncini. If you don’t have a food processor, a blender may be substituted. In step 2, pulse ingredients until roughly chopped, then proceed with the recipe, reducing processing times by half.

Ingredients

1/4	cup slivered almonds
12	ounces cherry or grape tomatoes (about 2 1/2 cups)
1/2	cup packed fresh basil leaves
1	medium garlic clove , minced or pressed through garlic press (about 1 teaspoon)
1	small pepperoncini (hot peppers in vinegar), stemmed, seeded, and minced (about 1/2 teaspoon) (see note)
	Table salt
	Pinch red pepper flakes (optional)
1/3	cup extra-virgin olive oil
1	pound pasta , preferably linguine or spaghetti
1	ounce Parmesan cheese , grated (about 1/2 cup), plus extra for serving

Instructions

1. 1. Toast almonds in small skillet over medium heat, stirring frequently, until pale golden and fragrant, 2 to 4 minutes. Cool almonds to room temperature.

2. 2. Process cooled almonds, tomatoes, basil, garlic, pepperoncini, 1 teaspoon salt, and red pepper flakes (if using) in food processor until smooth, about 1 minute. Scrape down sides of bowl with rubber spatula. With machine running, slowly drizzle in oil, about 30 seconds.

3. 3. Meanwhile, bring 4 quarts water to boil in large pot. Add pasta and 1 tablespoon salt and cook until al dente. Reserve ½ cup cooking water; drain pasta and transfer back to cooking pot.

4. 4. Add pesto and ½ cup Parmesan to cooked pasta, adjusting consistency with reserved pasta cooking water so that pesto coats pasta. Serve immediately, passing Parmesan separately.

Grilled eggplant and olive pizza

From Smitten Kitchen

A few months ago, a friend called to say that she was telling her office mates about how I love to grill pizza and they set to searching for my recipe on this site and couldn’t find it. Gulp, I said, I’ve just never written it up! From that day forward, I made it my Summer Priority to walk you through pizza on the grill, but I have failed at each turn. Either we’ve made the pizza too late in the evening and the pictures came out anything but appetizing, or the day I decided to try again, it has rained. Seriously. If you want thunderstorms to suddenly threaten, let me promise to make you grilled pizza for dinner.

Last night was the final straw, or the day I finally threw my hands in the air and declared that a proper introduction to grilled pizza will probably have to wait until next summer. (Fortunately, Jen and Dietsch at Last Night’s Dinner won’t make you wait that long.) I have had this grilled eggplant and olive pizza on the agenda even since I spied it in this month’s Gourmet and knew that it immediately needed to get in my belly. Four days later (a typical time lag these days from “idea” to “execution”, sadly) I had the ingredients amassed, the energy to give it a try and even a friend’s yard to grill in, thus of course, the weather went downhill. But I persevered, climbing into the far reaches of our linen closet where we stash kitchen stuff that doesn’t get much use (whispering hello to my 12-inch wedding cake pans and canneler molds), unearthing my cast iron panini pan (hey, close enough, right?) and setting to grill to my heart’s content, weather be damned.

And despite the fact that I generally feel indoor grilling is a sham — once you remove the smoldering charcoal flavor, the sun on your shoulders and the beer bottle condensating on a weathered picnic table, what’s left that’s worthwhile? — it was going along swimmingly, that is, until Alex came home and declared it “partly cloudy” in our apartment; whoops! Anyway, smoky plumes emanating from the kitchen aside, if this pizza can be this good cooked on a shoddy indoor grill pan, I can only imagine how dreamy it will be seared over fire in your backyard or on your rooftop this weekend. Smoky eggplant, briny olives and blistered bubbles of provolone… my friends, what are you waiting for?

One year ago: Grilled Eggplant with Caponata Salsa, Chocolate Peanut Butter Cake and Slow-Roasted Tomatoes
Two years ago: Brownie Mosaic Cheesecake

Grilled Eggplant and Olive Pizza
Adapted from Gourmet, August 2009

This recipe defies many of the things that I usually preach about pizza, namely that I generally go for pizzas that are thinner and less overloaded with toppings. You’re also more likely to get the results you want from them on a grill or in an oven. But this one — with its pre-grilled eggplant slices piled thick and melty and blistering-prone provolone — has got me rethinking my thin pizza biases because it’s hearty, smoky and delicious.

Makes 4 hearty dinner servings, or 9 appetizer-size portions

1 garlic clove, minced
1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 1/4 pound eggplant, cut into 3/4-inch-thick rounds
1 pound store-bought pizza or homemade pizza dough at room temperature (1 1/2 of this recipe will yield a 1-pound dough)
5 ounces sliced provolone, cut into short thin matchsticks (1 1/4 cups)
Handful pitted green olives, coarsely chopped (1/3 cup)
1/4 cup chopped flat-leaf parsley

To make this pizza on a grill, or in a grill pan: Stir together garlic and oil. Brush some of garlic oil on both sides of eggplant and season with 3/4 teaspoon salt and 1/2 teaspoon pepper. Grill over direct medium heat, covered, turning once, until tender, 6 to 8 minutes total. Cut into roughly one-inch pieces and set aside.

Stretch dough into about a 12- by 10-inch rectangle (or into the shape of your grill pan, which in my case, was square) on a large baking sheet or your counter and lightly brush with garlic oil. Oil grill rack, then put dough, oiled side down, on grill. Brush top with more garlic oil. Grill, covered, until underside is golden-brown, about 2 to 3 minutes.

Using tongs, return crust, grilled side up, to baking sheet. Scatter eggplant, cheese, olives, and parsley (whoops, forgot mine) over crust. Slide pizza from sheet onto grill and grill, covered, until underside is golden-brown and cheese is melted, about 3 to 5 minutes. (If you’re using an oven-safe grill pan, you can slide the pan into a preheated 500 degree oven at this point, as we did, which gets the toppings that much more blistered.) Season to taste with salt, pepper and a red pepper flakes.

To make this pizza in the oven: You can either fry or roast the eggplant slices, brushed with garlic oil, until tender. Prepare the pizza as you would any other, rolling or stretching out the dough, mounding on the toppings and sliding it onto a baking sheet or pizza stone in an oven that has been preheated to its top temperature. It will be ready in about 10 minutes.

Poutine râpée

Adapted from Practically Edible and Acadian Genealogy: Acadian Recipes

Poutine râpée is an Acadian boiled dumpling, made from grated and mashed potato, with pork in the center. They can be eaten savoury in a soup, or with butter, salt and pepper, mustard, or ketchup; or sweet with brown sugar, maple syrup, cranberry sauce, fruits, sugar, or molasses. Day old dumplings can be sliced and fried in butter.

The ratio is 2 parts raw to 1 part boiled potato.

Variation: Add salt, baking powder, and flour to the grated potatoes. Steam in a large cotton bag.

1/2 pound (250 g.) fatty salt pork
10 potatoes, raw, grated
5 potatoes, boiled, mashed (no butter or milk)
salt and pepper
flour

Soak the salted pork overnight to remove the excess salt. Cut into cubes.

Grate the uncooked potatoes and extract the water by putting them in a cotton bag and squeezing vigorously. Mix the grated potatoes with the mashed potatoes. Add salt and pepper to taste.

Roll the potato mixture into balls about the size of a large orange, make a hole in the center with your thumb, and add a tablespoon of the cubed salted pork. Close the hole, roll the poutine in white flour, then gently lower into a large pot filled with boiling salt water.

Simmer for 2 to 3 hours.

German bacon and onion tart (flammekueche)

From Cook's Illustrated

Serves 4 as a main course, or 6 as an appetizer. Published October 3, 2007. Web Exclusive.

For the lightest, crispest crust, use an unbleached all-purpose flour with a protein content no higher than 10.5 percent, such as Gold Medal or Pillsbury. Serve the tart with a salad for dinner, or cut it into small pieces and serve as an appetizer. This tart tastes great with Gewürztraminer (a German white wine).

This recipe was published in our cookbook The Best International Recipe.

Ingredients

Tart Dough
2	cups unbleached all-purpose flour (10 ounces), plus extra as needed
1/2	teaspoon instant yeast
1/2	teaspoon honey
1/2	teaspoon salt
3/4	cup warm water , plus 2 tablespoons (100 to 105 degrees)
1/4	cup vegetable oil
Topping
1	cup crème fraîche or sour cream
	Table salt and ground black pepper or ground white pepper
1/2	teaspoon fresh grated nutmeg
8	ounces thick-cut bacon (about 6 slices), cut crosswise into 1/4-inch strips
4	medium onions , halved and sliced thin (about 4 cups)

Instructions

1. 1. For the tart dough: Combine the flour, yeast, honey, and salt in a food processor. With the machine running, add the water through the feed tube, followed by the vegetable oil. Continue to process until the dough forms a ball, about 30 seconds.

2. 2. Turn the dough out onto the counter and knead by hand for 30 seconds, adding extra flour if the dough is sticky. Wrap the dough in plastic wrap and refrigerate for 2 hours, or up to 2 days.

3. 3. Adjust an oven rack to the lowest position, set a baking stone on the rack, and heat the oven to 500 degrees; let the baking stone heat for 1 hour.

4. 4. For the topping: Meanwhile, mix the crème fraîche, 1 teaspoon salt, 1/2 teaspoon pepper, and nutmeg together, cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate until needed.

5. 5. Cook the bacon in a 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat until browned and most of the fat has rendered, about 10 minutes. Transfer the bacon to a paper towel-lined plate, leaving the fat in the skillet. Add the onions and 1/2 teaspoon salt to the fat left in the skillet, cover, and cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until the onions are softened and have released their juices, about 10 minutes. Uncover and continue to cook, stirring often, until the onions begin to brown, about 6 minutes; set aside off the heat.

6. 6. To assemble and bake: Remove the dough from the refrigerator. Divide it into two equal pieces, forming each piece into a ball. Place one ball on a lightly floured sheet of parchment paper and cover with one large sheet of plastic wrap (or two small overlapping pieces). Using a rolling pin, roll the dough into a 15 by 9-inch oval. Slide the parchment paper with the dough onto an inverted baking sheet.

7. 7. Spread half of the crème fraîche mixture over the dough, leaving a 1/2-inch border at the edge. Scatter half of the onion mixture and half of the bacon over the top. Slide the parchment with the tart onto the heated baking stone. Bake until the edges of the tart are golden brown and the parchment releases from the tart bottom, 5 to 7 minutes. While the first tart bakes, roll out and assemble the second tart on a sheet of parchment paper using the remaining dough and topping. Cut the baked tarts into about 6 pieces, and serve immediately.

Chicken fajitas indoors

From Cook's Illustrated

Variations: Chicken fajitas for charcoal grill and Chicken fajitas for gas grill

Serves 4 to 6. Published September 1, 2005.

The chicken and vegetables in these fajitas are only mildly spicy. For more heat, include the jalapeño seeds and ribs when mincing. Although the chicken and vegetables have enough flavor to stand on their own, accompaniments (guacamole, salsa, sour cream, shredded cheddar or Monterey Jack cheese, and/or lime wedges) can be offered at the table. The chicken tenderloins can be reserved for another use or marinated and cooked along with the breasts.

Ingredients

1/3	cup lime juice (from 2 to 3 limes)
6	tablespoons vegetable oil
3	medium cloves garlic , minced or pressed through garlic press (about 1 tablespoon)
1	tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
1 1/2	teaspoons brown sugar
1	jalapeño chile , seeds and ribs removed, chile minced
1 1/2	tablespoons minced fresh cilantro leaves
	Table salt and ground black pepper
3	boneless, skinless chicken breasts (about 1 1/2 pounds), trimmed of fat, tenderloins removed, breasts pounded to 1/2-inch thickness
1	large red onion (about 14 ounces), peeled and cut into 1/2-inch-thick rounds (do not separate rings)
1	large red bell pepper (about 10 ounces), quartered, stemmed, and seeded
1	large green bell pepper (about 10 ounces), quartered, stemmed, and seeded
8 - 12	plain flour tortillas (6-inch)

Instructions

1. 1. In medium bowl, whisk together lime juice, 4 tablespoons oil, garlic, Worcestershire, brown sugar, jalapeño, cilantro, 1 teaspoon salt, and 3/4 teaspoon pepper. Reserve 1/4 cup marinade in small bowl; set aside. Add another teaspoon salt to remaining marinade. Place chicken in marinade; cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate 15 minutes.

2. 2. Adjust one oven rack to upper-middle position (about 8 inches from heating element) and second rack to lower-middle position; heat broiler.

3. 3. Brush both sides of onion rounds and peppers with 2 tablespoons oil and season with salt and pepper. Arrange onion rounds and peppers (skin sides up) in single layer on rimmed baking sheet. Wrap tortillas securely in foil in two packets, each containing half of tortillas.

4. 4. Remove chicken from marinade and pat dry with paper towels; discard marinade. Heat remaining 2 teaspoons oil in 12-inch nonstick or cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat until just beginning to smoke. Swirl oil to coat skillet, then arrange chicken smooth side down in skillet in single layer; cook without moving chicken, until well browned, about 3 minutes. Using tongs, flip chicken; continue to cook until second sides are well browned, about 2 minutes. Reduce heat to medium and continue to cook, turning chicken once or twice, until chicken is no longer pink when cut into with paring knife or instant-read thermometer inserted in thickest part registers 160 degrees, 3 to 5 minutes longer. Transfer chicken to large plate and let rest 5 minutes.

5. 5. While chicken is cooking, place baking sheet with vegetables in oven on upper rack; place tortilla packets on lower rack. Broil vegetables until spottily charred and peppers are crisp-tender, 6 to 8 minutes. Using tongs, transfer peppers to cutting board. Flip onion rounds and continue to broil until charred and tender, 2 to 4 minutes longer. Turn off broiler and remove vegetables, leaving tortillas in oven until needed.

6. 6. Separate onions into rings and place in medium bowl; slice bell peppers lengthwise into 1/4-inch strips and place in bowl with onions. Add 2 tablespoons reserved unused marinade to vegetables and toss well to combine. Slice chicken into 1/4-inch strips and toss with remaining 2 tablespoons reserved marinade in separate bowl; arrange chicken and vegetables on large platter and serve with warmed tortillas.

Steak tacos

From Cook's Illustrated

Serves 4 to 6. Published September 1, 2008. From Cook's Illustrated.

For a less spicy dish, remove some or all of the ribs and seeds from the jalapeños before chopping them for the marinade. In addition to the toppings suggested below, try serving the tacos with Sweet and Spicy Pickled Onions (see related recipe), thinly sliced radishes or cucumber, or salsa.

Ingredients

Herb Paste
1/2	cup packed fresh cilantro leaves
3	medium garlic cloves , roughly chopped
3	medium scallions , roughly chopped (about 1/3 cup)
1	medium jalapeño chile , stemmed and roughly chopped (see note)
1/2	teaspoon ground cumin
1/4	cup vegetable oil
1	tablespoon fresh lime juice
Steak
1	flank steak (1 1/2 to 1 3/4 pounds), trimmed of excess fat and cut lengthwise (with grain) into 4 equal pieces (see below)
1	tablespoon kosher salt or 1 1/2 teaspoons table salt
1/2	teaspoon sugar
1/2	teaspoon ground black pepper
2	tablespoons vegetable oil
Tacos
12	(6-inch) corn tortillas , warmed (see note)
	Fresh cilantro leaves
	Minced white or red onion
	Lime wedges

Instructions

1. 1. FOR THE HERB PASTE: Pulse cilantro, garlic, scallions, jalapeño, and cumin in food processor until finely chopped, ten to twelve 1-second pulses, scraping down sides as necessary. Add oil and process until mixture is smooth and resembles pesto, about 15 seconds, scraping down sides of workbowl as necessary. Transfer 2 tablespoons herb paste to medium bowl; whisk in lime juice and set aside.

2. 2. FOR THE STEAK: Using dinner fork, poke each piece of steak 10 to 12 times on each side. Place in large baking dish; rub all sides of steak pieces
   evenly with salt and then coat with remaining herb paste. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate at least 30 minutes or up to 1 hour.

3. 3. Scrape herb paste off steak and sprinkle all sides of pieces evenly with sugar and pepper. Heat oil in 12-inch heavy-bottomed nonstick skillet over medium-high heat until smoking. Place steak in skillet and cook until well browned, about 3 minutes. Flip steak and sear until second side is well browned, 2 to 3 minutes. Using tongs, stand each piece on a cut side and cook, turning as necessary, until all cut sides are well browned and internal temperature registers 125 to 130 degrees on an instant-read thermometer, 2 to 7 minutes. Transfer steak to cutting board and let rest 5 minutes.

4. 4. FOR THE TACOS: Using sharp chef’s knife or carving knife, slice steak pieces across grain into 1/8-inch-thick pieces. Transfer sliced steak to bowl with herb paste-lime juice mixture and toss to coat. Season with salt. Spoon small amount of sliced steak into center of each warm tortilla and serve immediately, passing toppings separately.

How to Warm Tortillas Our preferred method for warming tortillas is to place each one over the medium flame of a gas burner until slightly charred, about 30 seconds per side. We also like toasting them in a dry skillet over medium-high heat until softened and speckled with brown spots, 20 to 30 seconds per side. You can also use the oven: Divide the tortillas into 2 stacks and wrap each stack in foil. Heat the tortillas on the middle rack of a 350-degree oven for 5 minutes.

Keep the warmed tortillas wrapped in foil or a kitchen towel until ready to use or they will dry out. (If your tortillas are very dry, pat each with a little water before warming.)

Keys to Tender, Flavorful Beef
1. Cut: Slice flank steak into strips that can be browned on all sides.
2. Poke: Pierce steak pieces with fork to allow herb paste to penetrate.
3. Salt: Season meat and coat with herb paste; let stand at least 30 minutes.
4. Sear: Cook steak in generous 2 tablespoons oil to promote browning.
5. Slice: Cut steak thinly across grain to ensure tenderness.
6. Toss: Mix steak with more herb paste and lime juice to brighten flavors.

Corn Tortillas for Tacos The rule of thumb when buying tortillas is to buy a brand made with nothing more than ground corn treated with lime (an alkali that removes the germ and hull) and water. Look for brands sold in the refrigerator case of the supermarket, as these have few, if any, preservatives and tend to be more moist and flavorful.

Mexican pulled pork (carnitas)

From Cook's Illustrated

Serves 6. Published May 1, 2008. From Cook's Illustrated.

We like serving carnitas spooned into tacos, but you can also use it as a filling for tamales, enchiladas, and burritos.

Ingredients

Pork
1	(3 1/2-to 4-pound) boneless pork butt , fat cap trimmed to 1/8 inch thick, cut into 2-inch chunks
	Table salt and ground black pepper
1	teaspoon ground cumin
1	small onion , peeled and halved
2	bay leaves
1	teaspoon dried oregano
2	tablespoons juice from 1 lime
2	cups water
1	medium orange , halved
Tortillas and Garnishes
18	(6-inch) corn tortillas , warmed
	Lime wedges
	Minced white or red onion
	Fresh cilantro leaves
	Thinly sliced radishes
	Sour cream

Instructions

1. 1. Adjust oven rack to lower-middle position and heat oven to 300 degrees. Combine pork, 1 teaspoon salt, 1/2 teaspoon pepper, cumin, onion, bay leaves, oregano, lime juice, and water in large Dutch oven (liquid should just barely cover meat). Juice orange into medium bowl and remove any seeds (you should have about 1/3 cup juice). Add juice and spent orange halves to pot. Bring mixture to simmer over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally. Cover pot and transfer to oven; cook until meat is soft and falls apart when prodded with fork, about 2 hours, flipping pieces of meat once during cooking.

2. 2. Remove pot from oven and turn oven to broil. Using slotted spoon, transfer pork to bowl; remove orange halves, onion, and bay leaves from cooking liquid and discard (do not skim fat from liquid). Place pot over high heat (use caution, as handles will be very hot) and simmer liquid, stirring frequently, until thick and syrupy (heatsafe spatula should leave wide trail when dragged through glaze), 8 to 12 minutes. You should have about 1 cup reduced liquid.

3. 3. Using 2 forks, pull each piece of pork in half. Fold in reduced liquid; season with salt and pepper to taste. Spread pork in even layer on wire rack set inside rimmed baking sheet or on broiler pan (meat should cover almost entire surface of rack or broiler pan). Place baking sheet on lower-middle rack and broil until top of meat is well browned (but not charred) and edges are slightly crisp, 5 to 8 minutes. Using wide metal spatula, flip pieces of meat and continue to broil until top is well browned and edges are slightly crisp, 5 to 8 minutes longer. Serve immediately with warm tortillas and garnishes.

Don't Cut the Fat Leaving a 1/8-inch layer of fat on the pork is critical to imparting the best flavor and texture to the final dish. Overtrimming the meat will lead to dry, bland carnitas.

South vs. South of the Border Southern-style barbecued pulled pork (at left) is cooked outdoors in a smoker to create uniformly tender meat that’s served drenched in barbecue sauce. The pork in our carnitas recipe is cooked in the oven and features a soft interior and a crisp, caramelized exterior complemented by garnishes, not sauce.

Three Steps to Indoor Pulled Pork

1. OVEN-BRAISE
For fall-apart tender meat, oven-braise the pork at a low temperature in a covered Dutch oven for about two hours.

2. REDUCE
Remove the pork and reduce the braising liquid to a glaze thick enough for a spatula to leave a trail when pulled through it.

3. BROIL
Toss the pork with the glaze and broil it on the lower-middle rack in the oven to yield well-browned meat with crisp edges.

Braised beef brisket, Oaxacan style

From Cook's Illustrated

Serves 8 - 10. Published March 1, 1995.

It is important to have a good quality, instant-read thermometer with a scale of 0 to 220 degrees. An accurate oven thermometer is useful as well. Basting with the braising liquid produces a rich, flavorful glaze. Warm tortillas and salsa make nice accompaniments.

Ingredients

1	tablespoon black peppercorns
2	teaspoons cumin seed
1	teaspoon coriander seeds
1	tablespoon chili powder
1	beef brisket (about 5 pounds), surface fat retained
3	tablespoons vegetable oil
3-5	cups low-sodium chicken broth
1	can diced tomatoes (28 ounces)
2	ounces dried chile peppers (preferably Pasilla), seeded
	kosher salt
2	teaspoons dried thyme
2	teaspoons dried oregano
3	medium onions , quartered
1	head garlic , halved crosswise
	fresh parsley leaves , for garnish

Instructions

1. 1. Heat oven to 500 degrees. Crush spices or grind them coarsely; press them into brisket and set aside

2. 2. Using two burners if necessary, heat oil in large, heavy roasting pan long and wide enough to hold brisket and at least 2 inches deep. Add brisket; cook over medium-high heat, turning once with tongs, until brown on both sides, about 10 minutes. Remove brisket and set aside. Add 1 cup broth, tomatoes and chiles; bring to boil, scraping bottom of pan with wooden spoon to loosen brown bits; reduce by half. Remove pan from heat. Season brisket lightly with thyme, oregano and salt, and return to roasting pan. Scatter onions and garlic around brisket.

3. 3. Put roasting pan in oven and cook, stirring vegetables occasionally to avoid burning, until thickest part of brisket reaches an internal temperature of around 130 degrees, about 20 minutes.

4. 4. Remove pan from oven; reduce oven temperature to 250 degrees. Do not return brisket to oven until temperature drops to 250 degrees. Add enough chicken broth to pan so that liquid comes about halfway up side of meat (2 to 4 more cups), baste brisket, and return to oven. Braise brisket, basting and turning every 1/2 hour or so, until meat just gives when pierced with meat thermometer and brisket’s internal temperature registers around 175 degrees, 1 1/2 to 2 1/2 hours.

5. 5. Remove brisket from braising liquid and wrap in foil. Strain braising liquid into large mixing bowl. Reserve vegetables, squeezing garlic cloves from heads. Transfer braising liquid to tall, narrow container, and let stand until fat rises. Skim and discard fat. Puree vegetables, including garlic, with 1/2 cup braising liquid in food processor or blender. Add pureed vegetables and braising liquid to a sauté pan and simmer until reduced to thin sauce consistency.

6. 6. Meanwhile, cut brisket across the grain into thin slices (about 1/8-inch thick). Arrange slices of meat on warm plates; generously ladle sauce over meat. Garnish with parsley, and serve immediately.

Chili con carne

From Cook's Illustrated

Serves 6. Published March 1, 1998.

To ensure the best chile flavor, I recommend toasting whole dried chiles and grinding them in a mini-chopper or spice-dedicated coffee grinder, all of which takes only ten (very well-spent) minutes. Select dried chiles that are moist and pliant, like dried fruit. Count on trimming one-half to a full pound of waste from your chuck roast, so start with a four-pound roast to end up with three to three-and-a-half pounds of beef cubes. For hotter chili, boost the heat with a pinch of cayenne, a dash of hot pepper sauce, or crumbled pequin chiles near the end of cooking. Serve the chili with any of the following side dishes: warm pinto or kidney beans, corn bread or chips, corn tortillas or tamales, rice, biscuits, or just plain crackers, and top with any of the following garnishes: chopped fresh cilantro leaves, minced white onion, diced avocado, shredded cheddar or jack cheese, or sour cream.

Ingredients

3	tablespoons ancho chili powder or 3 medium pods (about 1/2 ounce), toasted and ground (see illustrations below)
3	tablespoons New Mexico chili powder or 3 medium pods (about 3/4 ounce), toasted and ground
2	tablespoons cumin seeds , toasted in a dry skillet over medium heat until fragrant, about 4 minutes, and ground
2	teaspoons dried oregano , preferably Mexican
7 1/2	cups water , divided
1	beef chuck roast (4-pounds), trimmed of excess fat and cut into 1-inch cubes
2	teaspoons table salt , plus extra for seasoning
8	ounces bacon (7 or 8 slices), cut into 1/4-inch pieces
1	medium onion , minced (about 1 cup)
5	medium cloves garlic , minced
4 - 5	small jalapeño chiles , cored, seeded, and minced
1	cup crushed tomatoes (canned), or plain tomato sauce
2	tablespoons lime juice from 1 medium lime
5	tablespoons masa harina or 3 tablespoons cornstarch
	Ground black pepper

Instructions

1. 1. Mix chili powders, cumin, and oregano in small bowl and stir in 1/2 cup water to form thick paste; set aside. Toss beef cubes with salt; set aside.
   
   

2. 2. Fry bacon in large, heavy soup kettle or Dutch oven over medium-low heat until fat renders and bacon crisps, about 10 minutes. Remove bacon with slotted spoon to paper towel-lined plate; pour all but 2 teaspoons fat from pot into small bowl; set aside. Increase heat to medium-high; sauté meat in four batches until well-browned on all sides, about 5 minutes per batch, adding additional 2 teaspoons bacon fat to pot as necessary. Reduce heat to medium, add 3 tablespoons bacon fat to now-empty pan. Add onion; sauté until softened, 5 to 6 minutes. Add garlic and jalapeño; sauté until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add chili paste; sauté until fragrant, 2 to 3 minutes. Add reserved bacon and browned beef, crushed tomatoes or tomato sauce, lime juice, and 7 cups water; bring to simmer. Continue to cook at a steady simmer until meat is tender and juices are dark, rich, and starting to thicken, about 2 hours.
   
   

3. 3. Mix masa harina with 2/3 cup water (or cornstarch with 3 tablespoons water) in a small bowl to form smooth paste. Increase heat to medium; stir in paste and simmer until thickened, 5 to 10 minutes. Adjust seasoning generously with salt and ground black pepper. Serve immediately, or preferably, cool slightly, cover, and refrigerate overnight or for up to 5 days. Reheat before serving.

Toasting and Preparing the Chiles

1. Dried chile pods toasted in a 350-degree oven for about 6 minutes become fragrant and puffed.

2. When cool enough to handle, remove stems and seeds from the pods, rip them into pieces, and process until powdery, 30 to 45 seconds.

Beef tacos

From Cook's Illustrated

Makes 8 tacos, serving 4. Published May 1, 2002.

Tomato sauce is sold in cans in the same aisle that carries canned whole tomatoes. Do not use jarred pasta sauce in its place. We prefer to let diners top their own tacos with whatever fillings they prefer. There’s no need to prepare all of the toppings listed below, but cheese, lettuce, and tomatoes are, in our opinion, essential.

Ingredients

Beef Filling
2	teaspoons vegetable oil or corn oil
1	small onion , chopped small (about 2/3 cup)
3	medium cloves garlic , minced or pressed through garlic press (about 1 tablespoon)
2	tablespoons chili powder
1	teaspoon ground cumin
1	teaspoon ground coriander
1/2	teaspoon dried oregano
1/4	teaspoon cayenne pepper
	Salt
1	pound 90% lean ground beef (or leaner)
1/2	cup tomato sauce
1/2	cup low-sodium chicken broth
1	teaspoon brown sugar
2	teaspoons vinegar (preferably cider vinegar)
	Ground black pepper
Shells and Toppings
8	taco shells (warmed according to package instructions), or Home-Fried Taco Shells (see related recipe)
1	cup shredded cheddar cheese (4 ounces), or Monterey Jack cheese
2	cups shredded iceberg lettuce
2	small tomatoes , chopped small
1/2	cup sour cream
1	avocado , diced medium
1	small onion , chopped small
2	tablespoons minced fresh cilantro leaves
	Tabasco sauce , or another brand of hot sauce

Instructions

1. 1. Heat oil in medium skillet over medium heat until hot and shimmering but not smoking, about 2 minutes; add onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 4 minutes. Add garlic, spices, and 1/2 teaspoon salt; cook, stirring constantly, until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add ground beef and cook, breaking meat up with wooden spoon and scraping pan bottom to prevent scorching, until beef is no longer pink, about 5 minutes. Add tomato sauce, chicken broth, brown sugar, and vinegar; bring to simmer. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer, uncovered, stirring frequently and breaking meat up so that no chunks remain, until liquid has reduced and thickened (mixture should not be completely dry), about 10 minutes. Adjust seasonings with salt and pepper.

2. 2. Using wide, shallow spoon, divide filling evenly among taco shells; place two tacos on individual plates. Serve immediately, passing toppings separately.

Fish tacos

From Cook's Illustrated

Serves 4 to 6. Published February 15, 2005.

Halibut or haddock can be substituted for the cod.

Ingredients

4 - 5	cups vegetable oil
1	cup all-purpose flour
1	teaspoon table salt
1/2	teaspoon ground cumin
1/4	teaspoon ground black pepper
1/4	teaspoon cayenne pepper
1	cup light-colored beer
2	pounds skinless cod , cut into 4- by 1-inch strips
12	(6-inch) corn tortillas or flour tortillas
1 1/2	cups recipe Chipotle Mayonnaise (see related recipe)
3	cups shredded iceberg lettuce
1 1/2	cups diced tomato
	Lime wedges (for serving)

Instructions

1. 1. Adjust an oven rack to the middle position and heat the oven to 200 degrees. Pour the oil into a large Dutch oven until it measures 1 inch deep. Heat the oil over medium-high heat until it reaches 375 degrees.
   

2. 2. Meanwhile, whisk the flour, salt, cumin, black pepper, and cayenne together in a large bowl. When the oil is almost ready, whisk the beer into the flour mixture until completely smooth.
   

3. 3. Wrap a stack of corn or flour tortillas in foil and warm on a baking sheet in the 200-degree oven while frying the fish.

4. 4. Pat the fish dry with paper towels. Add half the fish to the batter and stir gently to coat. Following the photo, use tongs to lift the pieces of fish from the batter, one at a time, allowing any batter to drip back into the bowl, and add to the hot oil.

5. 5. Fry, stirring the fish gently to prevent the pieces from sticking together, until golden brown, about 5 minutes.

6. 6. Remove the fried fish from the oil and let drain briefly on paper towels. Transfer the drained fish to a wire rack set over a baking sheet and keep warm in the oven. Return the oil to 375 degrees and batter and fry the remaining fish. Smear each of the warm tortillas with 2 tablespoons Chipotle Mayonnaise, then sprinkle with 1/4 cup lettuce and 2 tablespoons tomatoes. Add 1 piece of the fried fish to each tortilla and fold the tortilla over the fish. Serve with lime wedges.

Best old-fashioned burgers

From Cook's Illustrated

Makes 4 burgers. Published July 1, 2008. From Cook's Illustrated.

Sirloin steak tips are also labeled “flap meat” by some butchers. Flank steak can be used in its place. This recipe yields juicy medium to medium-well burgers. It’s important to use very soft buns. If doubling the recipe, process the meat in three batches in step 2. Because the cooked burgers do not hold well, fry four burgers and serve them immediately before frying more. Or, cook them in two pans. Extra patties can be frozen for up to 2 weeks. Stack the patties, separated by parchment, and wrap them in three layers of plastic wrap. Thaw burgers in a single layer on a baking sheet at room temperature for 30 minutes before cooking.

Ingredients

10	ounces sirloin steak tips , cut into 1-inch chunks (see note)
6	ounces beef short ribs (boneless), cut into 1-inch chunks
	Kosher salt and ground black pepper
1	tablespoon unsalted butter
4	hamburger buns , soft (see note)
1/2	teaspoon vegetable oil
4	slices American cheese
	Thinly sliced onion
1	recipe Classic Burger Sauce (see related Serve With recipe)

Instructions

1. 1. Place beef chunks on baking sheet in single layer, leaving 1/2 inch of space around each chunk. Freeze meat until very firm and starting to harden around edges but still pliable, 15 to 25 minutes.

2. 2. Place half of meat in food processor and pulse until meat is coarsely ground, 10 to 15 one-second pulses, stopping and redistributing meat around bowl as necessary to ensure beef is evenly ground. Transfer meat to baking sheet, overturning bowl and without directly touching meat. Repeat grinding with remaining meat. Spread meat over sheet and inspect carefully, discarding any long strands of gristle or large chunks of hard meat or fat.

3. 3. Gently separate ground meat into 4 equal mounds. Without picking meat up, with your fingers gently shape each mound into loose patty 1/2 inch thick and 4 inches in diameter, leaving edges and surface ragged. Season top of each patty with salt and pepper. Using spatula, flip patties and season other side. Refrigerate while toasting buns.

4. 4. Melt 1/2 tablespoon butter in heavy-bottomed 12-inch skillet over medium heat until foaming. Add bun tops, cut-side down, and toast until light golden brown, about 2 minutes. Repeat with remaining butter and bun bottoms. Set buns aside and wipe out skillet with paper towels.

5. 5. Return skillet to high heat; add oil and heat until just smoking. Using spatula, transfer burgers to skillet and cook without moving for 3 minutes. Using spatula, flip burgers over and cook for 1 minute. Top each patty with slice of cheese and continue to cook until cheese is melted, about 1 minute longer.

6. 6. Transfer patties to bun bottoms and top with onion. Spread 2 teaspoons of burger sauce on each bun top. Cover burgers and serve immediately.

Better Beef for a Better Burger Chuck is the usual choice for burgers. For the best flavor and tender juicy texture, we opted for two better cuts of beef: sirloin steak tips (right), which contribute big meaty taste, and well-marbled boneless short ribs (left), which lend the fat that keeps the burgers juicy. For best results, buy ribs with at least as much fat as the rib in the photo.

Keys to Loosely Packed Patties

1. FREEZE Chill meat in freezer, separating cubes by at least 1/2 inch, until firm but still pliable, 15 to 25 minutes. Pulse meat in food processor.

2. SPREAD AND DIVIDE Spread chopped meat over baking sheet and remove any large chunks or stringy connective tissue. Gently separate meat into 4 piles.

3. SHAPE Without lifting or compressing, gently form meat into thin patties with rough edges and textured surface.

Getting the Perfect Grind Underprocessed meat will lead to gristly bits in the finished burgers and patties that don’t hold together. Overprocessed meat becomes rubbery and dense as it cooks. Perfectly ground meat contains pieces that are fine enough to ensure tenderness but coarse enough that the patty will stay loose.

Charcoal-grilled stuffed flank steak

From Cook's Illustrated

Serves 4 to 6. Published July 1, 2009. From Cook's Illustrated.

Depending on the steak’s size, you may have between 8 and 12 pinwheels of stuffed meat at the end of step 2. Freezing the steak for 30 minutes will make butterflying easier. You will need both wooden skewers and twine for this recipe.

Ingredients

2	medium garlic cloves , minced or pressed through garlic press (about 2 teaspoons)
1	small shallot , minced (about 2 tablespoons)
2	tablespoons fresh parsley leaves , finely minced
1	teaspoon sage leaves , finely minced
2	tablespoons olive oil , plus extra for oiling grate
1	flank steak (2- to 2 1/2-pounds) (see note)
4	ounces thinly sliced prosciutto
4	ounces thinly sliced provolone
8 - 12	skewers soaked in water for 30 minutes
	Kosher salt and ground black pepper

Instructions

1. 1. Combine garlic, shallot, parsley, sage, and olive oil in small bowl. Following illustrations below, butterfly and pound flank steak into rough rectangle. With steak positioned so that grain runs parallel to edge of counter and opened side faces up, spread herb mixture evenly over surface of steak. Lay prosciutto evenly over steak, leaving 2-inch border along top edge. Cover prosciutto with even layer of cheese, leaving 2-inch border along top edge. Starting from bottom edge and rolling away from you, roll beef into tight log and place on cutting board seam-side down.

2. 2. Starting ½ inch from end of rolled steak, evenly space 8 to twelve 14-inch pieces of butcher’s twine at 1-inch intervals underneath steak. Tie middle string first; then working from outermost strings toward center, tightly tie roll and turn tied steak 90 degrees so seam is facing you. Skewer beef directly through outermost flap of steak near seam through each piece of string, allowing skewer to extend ½ inch on opposite side. Using chef’s knife, slice roll between pieces of twine into 1-inch-thick pinwheels. Season pinwheels lightly with kosher salt and black pepper.

3. 3. Light large chimney starter nearly full with charcoal (5 quarts, about 80 briquettes); allow to burn until coals are fully ignited and partially covered with thin layer of ash, about 20 minutes. Build modified two-level fire by arranging all coals over half of grill, leaving other half empty. Position cooking grate over coals, cover grill, and heat rack until hot, about 5 minutes; scrape grate clean with grill brush. Dip wad of paper towels in oil; holding wad with tongs, wipe cooking grate. Grill is ready when side with coals is hot (you can hold your hand 5 inches above grate for 2 to 3 seconds).

4. 4. Grill pinwheels directly over hot side of grill until well browned, 3 to 6 minutes. Using tongs, flip pinwheels; grill until second side is well browned, 3 to 5 minutes longer. Transfer pinwheels to cooler side of grill, cover, and continue to cook until center of pinwheels registers 125 degrees on instant-read thermometer, 1 to 4 minutes (slightly thinner pinwheels may not need time on cooler side of grill). Transfer pinwheels to large plate, tent loosely with foil, and let rest 5 minutes. Remove and discard skewers and twine and serve immediately.

Steak tips with mushroom-onion gravy

From Cook's Illustrated

Serves 4 to 6. Published September 1, 2009. From Cook's Illustrated.

Steak tips, also known as flap meat, are sold as whole steak, cubes, and strips. To ensure evenly sized chunks, we prefer to purchase whole steak tips and cut them ourselves. If you can only find cubes or strips, reduce the cooking time slightly to avoid overcooking any smaller or thinner pieces. Cremini mushrooms can be used in place of the white mushrooms. Our preferred brand of beef broth is Pacific. Serve over rice or egg noodles.

Ingredients

1	tablespoon soy sauce
1	teaspoon sugar
1 1/2	pounds sirloin steak tips , trimmed of excess fat and cut into 1 1/2-inch chunks (see note)
1/4	ounce dried porcini mushrooms , rinsed well
1 3/4	cups low-sodium beef broth (see note)
	Table salt and ground black pepper
2	tablespoons vegetable oil
1	pound white mushrooms , stems trimmed, caps wiped clean and cut into 1/4-inch slices (see note)
1	large onion , halved and sliced thin (about 1 1/2 cups)
1	medium garlic clove , minced or pressed through garlic press (about 1 teaspoon)
1/2	teaspoon minced fresh thyme leaves
4	teaspoons unbleached all-purpose flour
1	tablespoon chopped fresh parsley leaves

Instructions

1. 1. Combine soy sauce and sugar in medium bowl. Add beef, toss well, and marinate at least 30 minutes or up to 1 hour, tossing once.

2. 2. Meanwhile, cover porcini mushrooms with ¼ cup broth in small microwave-safe bowl; cover with plastic wrap, cut several steam vents in plastic with paring knife, and microwave on high power 30 seconds. Let stand until mushrooms soften, about 5 minutes. Lift mushrooms from liquid with fork and mince (you should have about 1½ tablespoons). Strain liquid through fine-mesh strainer lined with paper towel into medium bowl. Set mushrooms and liquid aside.

3. 3. Sprinkle meat with 1/2 teaspoon pepper. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat until smoking. Add meat and cook until well browned on all sides, 6 to 8 minutes. Transfer to large plate and set aside.

4. 4. Return skillet to medium-high heat and add remaining tablespoon oil, white mushrooms, minced porcinis, and ¼ teaspoon salt; cook, stirring frequently, until all liquid has evaporated and mushrooms start to brown, 7 to 9 minutes. Scrape pan to loosen fond. Add onion and ¼ teaspoon salt; continue to cook, stirring frequently, until onion begins to brown and dark bits form on pan bottom, 6 to 8 minutes longer. Add garlic, thyme, and flour; cook, stirring constantly, until vegetables are coated with flour, about 1 minute. Stir in remaining 1½ cups beef broth and porcini soaking liquid, scraping bottom of pan with wooden spoon to loosen browned bits, and bring to boil.

5. 5. Nestle steak pieces into mushroom and onion mixture and add any accumulated juices to skillet. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer until steak registers 130 degrees on instant-read thermometer, 3 to 5 minutes, turning beef over several times. Season with salt and pepper, sprinkle with parsley, and serve.

The Right Steak Tips
Steak tips (also called “flap meat” or “sirloin tips”) have a big beefy flavor and tender texture (when sliced properly against the grain) that make this cut one of our favorite inexpensive steaks. But since “steak tips” is a catch-all phrase for almost any type of beef cut into strips, it can be tricky to identify. The easiest way is to look at the grain: Flap meat has a large-grained texture that is distinct from other beef cuts, which tend to have a finer, tighter grain. And be sure to buy a whole steak, not strips or cubes.

Beef burgundy

From Cook's Illustrated

Serves 6. Published January 1, 2001.

If you cannot find salt pork, thick-cut bacon can be substituted. Cut it crosswise into 1/4-inch pieces and treat it just as you would salt pork, but note that you will have no rind to include in the vegetable and herb bouquet. To make this dish a day or two in advance, see “Advance Preparation of Beef Burgundy,” below. Boiled potatoes are the traditional accompaniment, but mashed potatoes or buttered noodles are nice as well.

Ingredients

Beef Braise
6	ounces salt pork , trimmed of rind (see Step 1 below), rind reserved, and salt pork cut into 1/4 inch by 1/4 inch by 1-inch pieces
10	sprigs fresh parsley leaves , torn into quarters
6	sprigs fresh thyme
2	medium onions , chopped coarse
2	medium carrots , chopped coarse
1	medium head garlic , cloves separated and crushed but unpeeled
2	bay leaves , crumbled
1/2	teaspoon whole black peppercorns
1/2	ounce dried porcini mushrooms , rinsed (optional)
4 - 4 1/4	pounds beef chuck roast , prepared as described in Steps 2, 3, and 4 below
	Table salt and ground black pepper
4	tablespoons unsalted butter , cut into 4 pieces
1/3	cup unbleached all-purpose flour
1 3/4	cups canned low-sodium chicken broth
1	bottle red burgundy wine (750 ml) or Pinot Noir
1	teaspoon tomato paste
Onion and Mushroom Garnish
36	frozen pearl onions (about 7 ounces)
1	tablespoon unsalted butter
1	tablespoon granulated sugar
1/2	teaspoon table salt
10	ounces white mushrooms , whole if small, halved if medium, quartered if large
2	tablespoons brandy
3	tablespoons minced fresh parsley leaves

Instructions

1. 1. Bring salt pork, reserved salt pork rind, and 3 cups water to boil in medium saucepan over high heat. Boil 2 minutes, then drain well.

2. 2. Cut two 22-inch lengths cheesecloth. Following "Making The Vegetable and Herb Bouquet," below, wrap parsley, thyme, onions, carrots, garlic, bay leaves, peppercorns, porcini mushrooms, and blanched salt pork rind in cheesecloth and set in 8-quart nonreactive Dutch oven. Adjust oven rack to lower-middle position and heat oven to 300 degrees.

3. 3. Set 12-inch skillet with salt pork over medium heat; sauté until lightly brown and crisp, about 12 minutes. Remove with slotted spoon to Dutch oven; pour off all but 2 teaspoons fat and reserve. Season beef with salt and pepper. Increase heat to high and brown half of beef in single layer, turning once or twice, until deep brown, about 7 minutes; transfer browned beef to Dutch oven. Pour 1/2 cup water into skillet and scrape pan with wooden spoon to loosen browned bits; when pan bottom is clean, pour liquid into Dutch oven.

4. 4. Return skillet to high heat and add 2 teaspoons reserved pork fat; swirl to coat pan bottom. When fat begins to smoke, brown remaining beef in single layer, turning once or twice, until deep brown, about 7 minutes; transfer browned beef to Dutch oven. Pour 1/2 cup water into skillet and scrape pan with wooden spoon to loosen browned bits; when pan bottom is clean, pour liquid into Dutch oven.

5. 5. Set now-empty skillet over medium heat; add butter. When foaming subsides, whisk in flour until evenly moistened and pasty. Cook, whisking constantly, until mixture has toasty aroma and resembles light-colored peanut butter, about 5 minutes. Gradually whisk in chicken broth and 1 1/2 cups water; increase heat to medium-high and bring to simmer, stirring frequently, until thickened. Pour mixture into Dutch oven. Add 3 cups wine, tomato paste, and salt and pepper to taste to Dutch oven and stir to combine. Set Dutch oven over high heat and bring to boil. Cover and set pot in oven; cook until meat is tender, 2 1/2 to 3 hours.

6. 6. Remove Dutch oven from oven and, using tongs, transfer vegetable and herb bouquet to strainer set over pot. Press out liquid into pot and discard bouquet. With slotted spoon, remove beef to medium bowl; set aside. Allow braising liquid to settle about 15 minutes, then, with wide shallow spoon, skim fat off surface and discard.

7. 7. Bring liquid in Dutch oven to boil over medium-high heat. Simmer briskly, stirring occasionally to ensure that bottom is not burning, until sauce is reduced to about 3 cups and thickened to the consistency of heavy cream, 15 to 25 minutes.

8. 8. While sauce is reducing, bring pearl onions, butter, sugar, 1/4 teaspoon salt, and 1/2 cup water to boil in medium skillet over high heat; cover and reduce heat to medium-low and simmer, shaking pan occasionally, until onions are tender, about 5 minutes. Uncover, increase heat to high, and simmer until all liquid evaporates, about 3 minutes. Add mushrooms and 1/4 teaspoon salt; cook, stirring occasionally, until liquid released by mushrooms evaporates and vegetables are browned and glazed, about 5 minutes. Transfer vegetables to large plate and set aside. Add 1/4 cup water to skillet and stir with wooden spoon to loosen browned bits. When pan bottom and sides are clean, add liquid to reducing sauce.

9. 9. When sauce has reduced to about 3 cups and thickened to the consistency of heavy cream, reduce heat to medium-low; stir in beef, mushrooms and onions (and any accumulated juices), remaining wine from bottle, and brandy into Dutch oven. Cover pot and cook until just heated through, 5 to 8 minutes. Adjust seasonings with salt and pepper and serve, sprinkling individual servings with minced parsley.

10. Advanced Preparation

11. Follow recipe for beef Burgundy through step 5. Using tongs, transfer vegetable and herb bouquet to mesh strainer set over Dutch oven. Press out liquid back into pot and discard bouquet. Let beef cool to room temperature in braising liquid in dutch oven, then cover and refrigerate 1 to 2 days.

12. With slotted spoon, skim congealed fat off top and discard. Set pot over medium-high heat and bring to simmer; with slotted spoon remove beef to medium bowl and set aside. Simmer sauce briskly, stirring occasionally to ensure that bottom is not burning, until reduced to about 3 cups and thickened to the consistency of heavy cream.

13. Continue with recipe from step 8.

The American burger

From Washingtonian.com

How To Build a Better Burger, part 10

The American Burger

By Bryan Voltaggio of Charlie Palmer Steak

1/8 teaspoon ground fennel seed, toasted
1/8 teaspoon ground coriander, toasted
1/3 teaspoon cracked black pepper
1/4 pound bleu cheese (Voltaggio likes Big Woods brand)
11/2 tablespoons canola oil
1 cup finely diced Vidalia onion
1 teaspoon minced garlic
3 teaspoons freshly squeezed lime juice
1 tablespoon finely chopped parsley
1 head Bibb lettuce
4 purple heirloom tomatoes, thickly sliced
Salt and pepper to taste
4 buns

Preheat the grill to 500 degrees.

In a bowl, combine the beef with the toasted spices and cracked pepper. Shape the meat into 1/2-pound patties.

Split each patty in two and place 2 ounces of bleu cheese into the center of each. Press the patty back together so it is whole again. Refrigerate until very cold.

Make an onion relish: In a saucepot set over medium heat, warm the canola oil and slowly sweat the onion for 20 minutes. Add the garlic and cook until soft. Stir in the lime juice and season with salt and pepper. Remove from the heat and stir in the parsley. Adjust seasoning and set aside.

Grill the burgers to desired temperature. Split the buns and toast lightly on the grill. Serve burgers with lettuce, tomato, and onion relish.

The shrimp burger

From Washingtonian.com

How To Build a Better Burger, part 9

The Shrimp Burger

By Jamie Leeds of Hank’s Oyster Bar

1 large red bell pepper, finely diced
1 bulb fennel, finely diced
1/2 cup corn kernels
1 tablespoon chopped garlic
1 tablespoon chopped shallots
2 pounds rock shrimp, shelled and deveined
1/4 cup buttermilk
1 tablespoon chopped Italian parsley
1 tablespoon chopped basil
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon white pepper
1 cup panko bread crumbs
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 cups baby arugula
4 tablespoons Dijon mayonnaise
4 buns

In a sautee pan set over high heat, caramelize the pepper, fennel, corn, garlic, and shallots. In a bowl, combine a pound of shrimp with the buttermilk. Fold in the remaining shrimp, the sauteed vegetables, and herbs. Season with salt and pepper. Refrigerate until cold.

Shape the mixture into 4 patties. Coat in bread crumbs. Heat the vegetable oil in a pan over medium-low heat and sautee the patties until golden, about 3 minutes on each side. If necessary, finish cooking in a preheated 350-degree oven. Serve on a bun with Dijon mayonnaise and arugula.

The Japanese burger

From Washingtonian.com

How To Build a Better Burger, part 8

The Japanese Burger

By Kaz Okochi of Kaz Sushi Bistro

1/4 pound tofu
1/2 pound ground beef
1/2 pound ground pork
1/4 cup thinly sliced shiitake mushrooms
1/4 cup chopped scallions
2 tablespoons miso paste
1 egg 1 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon pepper
1/4 teaspoon nutmeg
2 tablespoons soy sauce
1/4 cup mirin
1/4 teaspoon finely chopped garlic
1/4 teaspoon grated ginger
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
8 iceberg-lettuce leaves
1/4 cup Japanese mayonnaise
4 teaspoons grated horseradish
4 sesame buns

In a shallow pan, set the tofu between 2 paper towels. Weight it down with a can or bottle for 30 minutes. Let the water drain, chop the tofu, and set aside.

In a bowl, combine the beef, pork, tofu, shiitakes, scallions, miso, egg, salt, pepper, and nutmeg and mix well. Divide the mixture into 4 patties.

In another bowl, combine the soy sauce, mirin, garlic, and ginger. Set aside.

Set a pan over medium-high heat and pour in 1 tablespoon of vegetable oil. Cook each burger for 1 to 2 minutes, until brown on each side, then reduce the heat to low. Cover the pan with foil and cook 4 minutes more. Puncture patty to test if it’s done; its juices should be clear. Remove the burgers from the pan and drain the oil. Return the patties to the pan, raise the heat to medium and add the soy-sauce mixture. Keep the pan moving to prevent the sauce from burning and flip the burgers while the sauce thickens. The burgers are done when they have a thick, shiny coating of sauce. Serve on a toasted bun with lettuce, mayonnaise, and horseradish.

The Greek burger

From Washingtonian.com

How To Build a Better Burger, part 7

The Greek Burger

By Natalina Koropoulos of Mourayo

1 pound ground lamb
1 pound ground beef
1 tablespoon chopped shallots
4 teaspoons chopped fresh mint
1/3 of a cucumber, grated with the skin on, then drained in a cheesecloth
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1 teaspoon chopped fresh dill
1 cup Greek yogurt
2 tomatoes, sliced
1/3 red onion, sliced
1 teaspoon fresh oregano
1 teaspoon olive oil
Salt and pepper to taste
1 cup feta cheese, crumbled
4 rounds pita bread, brushed with olive oil, sprinkled with oregano, and toasted or grilled

In a bowl, mix the lamb, beef, shallots, and mint until just combined. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Divide into 4 patties.

Preheat the grill to a medium-high flame and cook the burgers to desired temperature.

Make a tzatziki by combining the cucumber, garlic, dill, and yogurt.

In a separate bowl, toss the tomato, red onion, oregano, and olive oil. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Spread each pita round with tzatziki and top with a burger, the tomato-onion mixture, and feta.

The Indian burger

From Washingtonian.com

How To Build a Better Burger, part 6

The Indian Burger

By Mitul Tuli of Heritage India

21/4 pounds ground chicken
2 eggs, lightly whisked
1 tablespoon cumin powder
1 teaspoon yellow-chili powder
1 teaspoon white pepper
4 teaspoons vegetable oil
1/3 cup whole cashews, ground
2/3 cup finely chopped onion
1/2 cup finely chopped ginger
1/3 cup fresh cilantro leaves, chopped
1 teaspoon garam masala
5 tablespoons butter, melted
2 tablespoons mayonnaise
3 tablespoons mint chutney (recipe follows)
2 tomatoes, sliced
1/2 red onion, sliced
1/4 cup cilantro leaves, chopped (for garnish)
Salt to taste
4 buns

Preheat the oven to 300 degrees.

In a bowl, mix the chicken with the eggs, cumin, yellow-chili powder, white pepper, and vegetable oil. Season with salt. Set aside for 15 minutes. Fold in the cashews, chopped onion, ginger, 1/3 cup cilantro, and garam masala. Divide into 4 patties.

Roast the patties in the oven for 8 minutes, basting once with butter. When the burgers are cooked through, remove them from the oven.

Slice 4 buns in half. Spread one side with mayonnaise and the other with mint chutney. Place a burger on each bun and garnish with tomato, red onion, and chopped cilantro leaves. Serve with more mint chutney on the side.

Mint chutney (makes 2 cups):

31/3 cups fresh mint leaves
12/3 cups fresh cilantro leaves
3 tablespoons lemon juice
2 jalapeno peppers
1/2 red onion, chopped
1 tablespoon chopped ginger
5 tablespoons yogurt
1 tablespoon chat masala
1/2 teaspoon kashmiri red-chili powder
1/2 teaspoon salt

Put the mint, cilantro, lemon juice, jalapenos, onion, and ginger in a blender and puree into a smooth paste. Transfer to a bowl and stir in the yogurt, chat masala, and chili powder. Season with salt.